Embarking on a Danube River Cruise from Budapest to Passau during the holiday season is a picturesque journey through stunning landscapes and a delightful culinary adventure.
I recently sailed along the historic Danube River, savoring regional delicacies on board my Viking Cruise and in each port city. I explored the delectable culinary experiences that awaited at each city’s unique Christmas Market. I’m a foodie at heart and a long-time culinary writer, so this trip to visit festive holiday markets and their various cuisines was a highlight of my holidays, and a bit of a gift to myself!
Itinerary:
- Budapest, Hungary
- Bratislava, Slovakia
- Vienna, Austria
- Krems, Austria
- Linz, Austria and the Austrian countryside
- Passau, Germany
Budapest, Hungary
The diverse flavors of each region of a Christmas Market cruise along the Danube River are on display at each stop. Each country and city is known for specific cuisine and flavors.
My first destination was Budapest, Hungary, which is a delight for the eyes and the palate. As I walked the cobblestone streets of the Buda Castle District to the Christmas Market near Fisherman’s Bastion, I was pleasantly surprised by the displays of fresh paprika in many local shops. Whether you like your paprika hot or sweet, there is something for everyone here.
SheBuysTravel Tip: The cute little paprika tins are the perfect size for stocking stuffers and a gift for those at home.
That evening aboard my home for the week, the Viking Vilhjalm, we were treated to the traditional Hungarian dish, Chicken Paprikash with egg spatzle. Viking River Cruises are known for their commitment to local cuisine and providing passengers with culinary experiences reflective of the destinations they are visiting.
In addition to the numerous food and drink offerings at Europe’s famed Christmas markets, each city is known for certain unique collector items. In addition to paprika, Budapest is famed for their beautiful ceramic painted eggs, many of which are Christmas ornaments.
Budapest Side Trip
Budapest is much more than Christmas markets. From the House of Houdini museum (famous illusionist renowned for breaking free from chains while submerged underwater who hailed from Budapest); to the breathtaking Hungarian Parliament building, this historic city is a delight to visit any time of year.
My favorite excursion while in Budapest was to the thermal baths at Szechenyi. This destination in Budapest is one of the best and largest spa baths in Europe with its 15 indoor baths and three grand outdoor pools. It was exactly what I needed to recuperate from my jet lag on my first full day in Europe. Robes and slippers are provided, and each visitor receives a wristband “watch” key to their own private changing closet for privacy. My ticket was included as part of an optional excursion with my Viking Cruise to the area, but individual tickets can be purchased onsite.
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Bratislava, Slovakia
In Bratislava, Slovakia, prepare to savor loksa, a traditional Slovak dish that embodies the heartiness of the region.
Loksa’s come in sweet and savory options. Consisting of a potato pancake made from potatoes, flour, and eggs, they’re fried or baked until golden brown, then filled with savory options such as cheese or different livers such as goose liver, or sweet options that include Nutella and fruit spreads. I sampled a Nutella and nut filled loksa at the Christmas market – there were dozens of options to choose from – and it was sweet and satisfying.
SheBuysTravel Tip: Viking Cruises offer optional add-on excursions to their normal itinerary. I took part in a group dinner and beer tasting at the Bratislava flagship restaurant to taste authentic local flavors with a guide who explained the significance of each dish. Slovakian food is very hearty and consists of a lot of meat and potatoes to sustain people through the winter.
Vienna, Austria
I spent the entire day in Vienna to soak up as much of this invigorating city as I could. Vienna is much like downtown Chicago with high-end shops but sprinkled in are old, historic buildings that have been preserved.
When in Vienna, Austria, indulge in the classic Vienna Schnitzel. Thin slices of veal are coated in breadcrumbs and fried to golden perfection, creating a crunchy exterior that gives way to tender, flavorful meat. Paired with a squeeze of lemon and perhaps a side of potato salad, this iconic dish is a true Viennese culinary masterpiece.
All Austrian Christmas markets have a large focus on sausages. You will find a variety to choose from. I visited two different Christmas markets in Vienna. The first one I visited was midday. I enjoyed a cheese filled sausage in the sunshine with my travel companions.
The amount of sweet and savory food at Austrian Christmas markets is mind boggling. Vienna’s holiday markets offer a variety of food and drink. The most famous drink of all at Christmas markets is the traditional Glühwein, a mulled wine that is a spiced hot drink. It’s extremely satisfying on a cold day.
SheBuysTravel Tip: If you want the non-alcoholic version, request the kinderpunsch. It is still sweet and warms you up from the inside out! Another option is hot chocolate.
Each Christmas market has collectable mugs that change each year. Some of them are traditional coffee shaped mugs, and some are unique shapes like Christmas stockings, but in mug form.
SheBuysTravel Tip: If you drink enough gluhwein, you’re going to need to find a restroom! Public bathrooms in Europe are called water closets and are often under street level. Look for the “WC” sign. Bathrooms are not free to use. You will need local currency in change form and many water closets have an attendant.
Krems, Austria
Right up the Danube River from Vienna is the quaint town of Krems. Krems is much smaller and I visited on a sunny December day. This area is known for all things apricot, or marillens as they like to call them. Locals make wine, schnapps and jams and jellies from the small fruit. Krems, Austria, is located in the center of the Wachau apricot region and you’ll find a variety of offerings.
Right in town, I found the cutest little food truck offering chimney cakes. These are cylindrical pastries made by wrapping dough around a cone-shaped mold and then roasting it over an open flame until golden brown. The result is a crispy exterior that gives way to a soft and doughy inside. Coated in sugar, cinnamon, or nuts, chimney cakes are a popular street food.
Side trip: Wachau Valley’s Gottweig Abbey
On the other side of the Danube River from Krems, high upon a hill, sits the Gottweig Abbey. Journey to a working baroque abbey where Benedictine monks have worked and worshiped for more than 900 years. They’ve also produced wine on the narrow terraces that surround the abbey, and visitors are invited to try samples at the end of the abbey tour. It is famous for apricot jams and wines crafted on location; the monastery is home to the highest apricot orchard in Austria’s Wachau Valley and visitors get to see the bedroom where Napoleon slept during his stay here.
Linz, Austria
In Linz, Austria, after a morning exploring the city, we took an optional excursion to the Austrian countryside where we met with a farm family who taught us to bake bread using wheat and spelt flours. The rustic setting, the warmth of the oven, and the shared laughter created an experience that added depth to the simple joy of indulging in freshly baked goods.
After the rolls were baked, we sat down for a typical Austrian dinner of meats, cheese, hummus and beetroot spread, alongside our warm baked bread. It was an immersive experience and one of my favorite parts of the trip.This was an optional excursion as part of my trip with Viking Cruises.
Passau, Germany
My weeklong trip concluded in the city of Passau, Germany, near the Black Forest. This Christmas market was my favorite. We were there for the entire day, so I was able to enjoy it during daylight hours and to go back at dusk to enjoy the sunset and the twinkling lights of the stands in the town square.
I certainly enjoyed the market, which occupied a large square in front of St. Stephan’s Cathedral, just steps away from the Danube. The Bavarian-style Christmas market featured lots of local goods. It was at this market that I bought several ornaments and gifts for friends and family back home.
For dinner I enjoyed oven-fresh sengzelten cooked in wood-fired ovens at the Christmas market. I had never heard of this Bavarian specialty, but I was intrigued by the way it was prepared. My understanding (translating from German) is that it starts with rye flour to make a flat bread that is baked in a wood-burning oven and topped with sour cream and chives or other ingredients, such as ham and cheese. Fresh from the oven, the sengzelten was delicious on a crisp December evening.
I was also pleased to find a stand at this Christmas Market with a large assortment of roasted nuts, including hazelnuts, walnuts, almonds, chestnuts and pistachios.
Passau is also known for gingerbread. A holiday favorite, Passau’s gingerbread is crafted with a blend of honey, molasses and aromatic spices. Decorated with intricate patterns and often served in festive shapes (not always like a gingerbread man), these gingerbread treats provided a sweet conclusion to my culinary voyage.
On this adventure I passed through some of Europe’s most enchanting countries. Embarking on a Viking Danube River Cruise from Budapest to Passau is not only a visual feast for the eyes but also a culinary adventure. You’ll savor regional dishes inspired by the fairy-tale cities along the Danube. As you explore each destination, try the signature dishes that define the culinary identity of Budapest, Bratislava, Vienna, Krems, Linz and Passau. It’s an unforgettable trip that wets your palate to return and provides a deep appreciation for the diverse culinary traditions along the Danube River, especially during the holiday season.
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