Charming Cruise on a Canal Barge in the Scottish Highlands

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Take the Spirit of Scotland Canal Barge on the Caledonian Canal for a European waterway.
Spirit of Scotland Canal Barge on the Caledonian Canal. Photo credit: R.C. Staab

The captain of our canal barge trip summed up our week-long excursion aboard the intimate Spirit of Scotland boat in the Scottish Highlands in one word: charming. Has anyone ever described a Caribbean cruise with 4000 passengers as charming? Or used that word to describe a European riverboat cruise rushing passengers on and off the boat eager to motor all night to the next country?

Under the leadership of European Waterways, passengers have discovered barge experiences on small ships in the UK, Ireland and Europe that are about enjoying the moment, cruising smoothly on small canals and finding the pleasures and surprises of small towns and bends in the river with occasional stops at major attractions. In a week, a canal barge may only cover 60 or 70 miles. That worry-free slow place of travel creates an indelible memory of a region that is impossible to replicate traveling along two-lane, winding, wet roads in a car or a motorcoach.

With typically no more than a dozen passengers in six cabins, cruising in a canal barge is an opportunity to share the experience with strangers who quickly become friends over the course of a week. On the Spirit of Scotland cruising the Caledonian Canal, we met a widowed woman who was tentatively venturing out for the first time as a single traveler on holiday. She chose the canal barge because she could go at her own pace and interact with a small group of people, yet have plenty of privacy. At the end of the week, she said the cruise had exceeded her expectations, and she was planning more adventures as a single traveler.

The captain’s view on the Spirit of Scotland as it traverses the European waterways of Scottish Highlands.
The captain’s view on the Spirit of Scotland. Photo credit: R.C. Staab

Exploring the Highlands on the Spirit of Scotland

Join us on this trip aboard the Spirit of Scotland traversing the Scottish Highlands from the North Sea to the Atlantic Ocean through the glens, lochs, rivers and connecting segments of the Caledonian canal with a view of the oldest mountains on the planet. No large riverboat cruise could possibly navigate these waterways. Although purpose-built less than 20 years ago as a hotel barge, the Spirit of Scotland is reminiscent of steamers and small ships that sailed the waterway when the Caledonian Canal was opened in 1822.

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View from the Scotland Canal Barge on the Caledonian Canal, Scottish Highlands.
View from the Scotland Canal Barge on the Caledonian Canal. Photo credit: R.C. Staab

Getting to the Highlands

While canal barge trips are all inclusive with meals and activities, passengers are responsible for arranging their own transportation to the pick-up point, in this case the popular Scottish Highlands city of Inverness.

Several people on our trip spent a week or so exploring the more famous Scottish Lowlands’ cities of Edinburgh and Glasgow and then journeying by rental car or train to Inverness. For those wanting to connect directly with Inverness, the easiest transport mode from the U.S. and other European destinations was flying directly to Inverness either via London or Amsterdam. Though we might have preferred to see the Scottish Lowlands before arriving in Inverness, the only direct flights from the U.S. to Scotland were to Edinburgh, but those flights were considerably more expensive, and there were no direct flights from Edinburgh to Inverness.

View of Inverness Castle from the European waterways of River Ness
View of Inverness Castle from the River Ness. Photo credit: R.C. Staab

Enjoying Inverness

At either the beginning or the end of the trip, passengers are likely to have almost a full day of touring in Inverness, the primary city in the Scottish Highlands. Walkers and cyclists are found in abundance along the paths on both sides of the River Ness which splits the town in two. This is the best place for shopping along the canal, especially for pharmacies and department stories or to purchase a Scottish kilt or woolen sweater. Towering over the city is the Inverness Castle which for most of the past century was used as a courthouse. It’s currently undergoing renovation and is scheduled to reopen in 2025 as the Inverness Castle Experience celebrating the Spirit of the Highlands.

Inverness is the gateway to the North Sea, safely tucked along the Moray Firth – what we Americans call a bay. For an opportunity to go out on the water, the Dolphin Spirit Inverness offers two popular excursions into the bay and out to Fort George. On the two-hour wildlife trip, it’s possible to spot seals, sharks, whales and porpoises as well as local seabirds. For the adventuresome, the company offers the Mischief Wildlife Experience on a speedy boat, providing all passengers with splashproof, windproof suits, a lifejacket, goggles and binoculars.

Off the European waterways of Scottish Highlands, dine and rest at the The Kingsmills Hotel in Inverness.
The Kingsmills Hotel in Inverness. Photo credit: R.C. Staab

Beginning at the Kingsmills Hotel

With the unpredictability of travel, here is one truism when it relates to arriving for the start of a planned cruise – get there the day before. Don’t count on seamless connections on airlines or trains.

For European Waterways trips on the Spirit of Scotland or its sister-ship, the Scottish Highlander, the pick-up is late afternoon of the first day of the trip at the Kingsmills Hotel in Inverness.

Kingsmills Hotel is a four-star hotel that bustles with families, adventure travel groups and individual travelers looking for an upscale property in the Scottish Highlands. The comfortable rooms are spread out across several wings and feature views of the 4-acre property. There’s a good gym, a large swimming pool with hot tub and a full-service spa located in a separate building from the main property. The hotel is located on the outskirts of Inverness, yet within walking distance of the city center and an easy cab ride from the airport. In the evening, the restaurant and lobby hosts a hub of activity with a piano player in the corner, a bustling bar and guests playing cards at tables.

SheBuysTravel Tip: The Kingsmills Hotel is a popular choice for visitors seeking upscale accommodations in Inverness. Book early. They also have a sister property, the five-star Ness Walk Hotel in downtown Inverness.

Welcome reception aboard the Spirit of Scotland as it traverses the European waterways of Scottish highlands.
Welcome reception aboard the Spirit of Scotland. Photo credit: R.C. Staab

Welcome Aboard the Spirit of Scotland

Upon arrival at the Spirit of Scotland barge, guests are greeted with champagne or sparkling water as they sit down in the lounge/bar area to hear from the crew about staying on the canal barge and the week’s adventures ahead. The interior of the lounge is bright and spacious with picture windows on both sides and, for the boat lovers, a direct view forward into the wheelhouse where the captain sits surveying the waters ahead. With the proximity of the wheelhouse and views on all sides, passengers become quickly acquainted with the ins and outs of the captain and crew guiding the boat through the lochs (aka lakes for non-Scottish folk) and locks of the Caledonian Canal and tying up at docks overnight.

For those who have been on larger cruise ships and have experienced waking up in the middle of the night to a rocking boat, fear not the canal barge. Well before sunset each night, the boat is tied to a dock on land and stays  in calm water until at least breakfast time.

At 117 feet long, the main level of the boat is spacious and comfortable.  The dining room is completely separate from the lounge/bar. At the front is a small outdoor space for taking photos and to the rear is a larger space for sitting or enjoying the hot tub (see photo below.)

Sleeping quarters aboard the Spirit of Scotland on the European waterways of the Scottish Highlands.
Sleeping quarters aboard the Spirit of Scotland. Photo credit: R.C. Staab

Tight but Comfortable Sleeping Quarters

The Spirit of Scotland has six state rooms, each of which can hold two people. On any given trip, there are no more than 12 passengers.  With six crew members, that’s an excellent passenger to crew ratio.  The rooms at the lower level of the boat are separated into two different areas,  so there are never more than six passengers in three rooms in either sleeping quarter of the boat.

All cabins have two single beds which can be reconfigured into a queen bed. However, the two bed configuration allows each person easier access to the bathroom. With a single queen bed, one person sleeps flush against the cabin wall.

Although unpacking may seem daunting at first, there’s plenty of storage space with triple double-door wardrobes, a desk with drawers, a bedside table and space underneath the beds to stow away suitcases. Near the bed, there’s a reading light with two USB ports for electronic devices. At the desk, there’s a separate plug which requires a converter for US passengers. Complimentary WiFi is available and worked well throughout the trip. Each room has a TV with good reception.

While it’s a tight fit, the bathrooms have a shower, sink and toilet. Towels, soap, hair dryers, slippers and bathrobes are provided. One of our fellow passengers enjoyed walking around at breakfast wearing his robe, as well as using the robe to travel back and forth from his cabin to the hot tub.

For a small space, the three portholes provide welcome light. At night, with the cool Scottish Highlands air, we opened the portals and slept comfortably. Throughout the week, we never had to cool or heat the room.

Enjoy dinner with the captain as you traverse the European waterways.
Dinner with the Captain. Photo credit: R.C. Staab

Sumptuous Meals

The European Waterways Cruises is all inclusive so there’s no reason to reach for your wallet or run up a tab during the trip. In advance of the trip, there is frequent communication between guests and cruise staff requesting information about special meal requirements, allergies or preferences. For one guest, the chef always prepared gluten-free breads and meals.  For me, I prefer meals without red meat, so without even having to remind the staff, I was offered fish or chicken when beef or lamb was the main course at dinner.

For breakfast, a full Continental buffet is set up alongside the main dining area. The chef stands ready to cook eggs, sausages or pancakes. For all lunches and dinners on the boat, there are appetizers, entrees and desserts. All meals on board are freshly prepared by the chef from a set-menu.

One night during the week guests are treated to a gourmet dinner at The Lovat Restaurant on Loch Ness.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Feel free to ask the chef to share his recipes. I returned with an email from the chef for his banana souffle.

Enjoy dessert on the Spirit of Scotland as it traverses the European waterways.
Dessert on the Spirit of Scotland. Photo credit: R.C. Staab

Wines, Desserts and Cheese

At every meal, guests are offered a white wine with the appetizer and red wine with the meal. Following dinner, there is more wine, coffee and liqueurs and a selection of regional cheeses. With only a few selections of champagnes, all drinks are included in the cruise price.

Enjoy performances from the local band in the Lounge as you cruise the European waterways.
Local band performing in the Lounge. Photo credit: R.C. Staab

Lounging, Drinking and Entertaining

The warm and welcoming lounge features rich-coloured wooden paneling, large picture windows and comfortable seating. The well-stocked bar is open 24 hours. Typically a crew member is there to serve, but should the crew be busy, guests are also welcome to go behind the bar to pick up a bottle of water, soft drinks or beer.

As the boat is typically docked by dinner time and stays there throughout the night, the cruise company has arranged for post-dinner entertainment. One evening, we were treated to a local band that played traditional Scottish music along with contemporary music – even a Bruce Springsteen cover. Another evening, a storyteller stopped by to explain the history of kilts and even demonstrated how to wear a kilt with one of our guests volunteering to serve as a model.

Enjoy a hot tub aboard the Spirit of Scotland as you traverse the European waterways of Scottish highlands while enjoying its views.
Hot tub aboard the Spirit of Scotland. Photo credit: R.C. Staab

Soaking Up Your Surroundings

On the main level outside of the dining area to the back of the boat, there is a covered terrace with seats and a hot tub that comfortably holds four people. The temperature is about 100 degrees Fahrenheit, which makes for a soothing respite after a hike along the canal path or a walk in one of the towns where the boat moors. The crew willingly opens the hot tub day or night.

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Large outdoor deck on level 3 for unencumbered views. Photo credit: R.C. Staab

Abundant Outdoor Space

Unlike many other canal barges which have height restrictions due to low bridges, the Caledonian Canal has no such encumbrance. With the Spirit of Scotland, the ship builders were able to include a large outdoor deck on the third level of the boat.  Although the weather is not often conducive to outdoor dining, there is a large table and chairs under an awning.

During our trip, we moved all the lounge chairs to the front of the boat in a semi-circle as the group relaxed and enjoyed the view of the mountains of the Scottish Highlands. What made it all the more enjoyable was the crew bringing up hot drinks from below and offering blankets to snuggle.

Although there is no gym, the ship offers a yoga mat and a few weights. The top deck had plenty of space  where I spread out to do some daily exercise with home equipment I brought with me.

The Caledonian Canal near Inverness with the Spirit of Scotland docked in the distance in the European waterways.
The Caledonian Canal near Inverness with the Spirit of Scotland docked in the distance. Photo credit: R.C. Staab

Walk, Hike and Bike Along the Canal

With frequent stops for almost two dozen locks from Inverness to Fort William, there is ample opportunity for guests to exit the boat at one lock and meet it farther along the canal. Here’s the chance to walk off some of the calories consumed onboard.

The ship offers eight bikes and helmets. For the most part, the pathways along the canal are well maintained, hard-packed dirt or asphalt roads and are infrequently used by cars and trucks.

Off the European waterways, check out the famous Eilean Donan Castle featured in the movies, The World is Not Enough and Highlander.
The famous Eilean Donan Castle featured in the movies, The World is Not Enough and Highlander. Photo credit: R.C. Staab

Excursions Abound (Without an Extra Charge!)

Each day of the journey, guests are offered a half-day tour of one of the top attractions in the Scottish Highlands. There are two air–conditioned vehicles for excursions including a 9-seat Mercedes Sprinter and 7-seat Mercedes Vito that are always parked close by. With so few people, the tour director can tailor the excursion to fit the needs of the passengers or including a quick stop at a local ATM.

Excursions include:

  • Culloden Battlefield
  • Cawdor Castle
  • Fort Augustus
  • Highland Club for a raptor demonstration
  • Eilean Donan Castle
  • Ben Nevis Distillery

While guests can choose to skip tours, it’s well worth the effort to see the Eilean Donan Castle, one of Scotland’s most iconic landmarks, which sits on a small island at the confluence of three lakes: Loch Duich, Loch Long and Loch Alsh, and features a picture-perfect arched bridge which has been featured in films such Highlander and the James Bond adventure, The World is Not Enough,

SheBuysTravel Tip: Read our full review of the Top Things to Do in the Scottish Highlands including many of the excursions offered on the canal barge trips.

Views of the ruins of Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness while traversing the European waterways.
The ruins of Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness. Photo credit: R.C. Staab

No Monster but a Ruined Castle by the Loch

If there’s one Scottish attraction that most tourists seek, it’s hoping to catch a glimpse of the Loch Ness Monster on Loch Ness, the largest freshwater lake in the Scottish Highlands and the deepest lake in Scotland. Fortunately, most things to do with the monster or “Nessie” are confined to the gift shops, but the monster’s fame has helped spur tours out into the lake, with its high-banked hills.

From the land, many tour buses stop at the ruins of Urquhart Castle, one of Scotland’s largest castles sitting on a dramatic promontory overlooking the lake. During the 500 years it was fully occupied, the control of the castle passed back and forth between the Scots and English. In 1690, the English government forces blew up the castle as part of their effort to finally put an end to the Jacobite Rebellion. It was never restored. For more than 100 years, the site of the castle ruins has been a tourist attraction.

Although the Spirit of Scotland cannot anchor near the castle, the captain makes an effort to sail close by and offer rare views of the castle.

Cawdor Castle is a sight to behold, off the European waterways.
Cawdor Castle. Photo credit: R.C. Staab


No Macbeth but a Liveable Castle

Like Loch Ness and its monster, the Cawdor Castle in Nairn near Inverness may best be known to Americans for its association with Shakespeare’s Macbeth, in which the title character is made Thane of Cawdor. Like Nessie, Macbeth is why the castle is known outside the UK, but his name is rarely mentioned in the tour. Macbeth’s reign as the Thane of Cawdor and King of Scotland was centuries before the current home of the Dowager of Cawdor was built. The Cawdor Castle’s origins trace back to 1454, granted to William Calder, with significant expansions made over the centuries, including a drawbridge and turrets. Visitors can explore its beautifully maintained gardens, including a secret garden and maze. Inside, the castle features 11 well-preserved rooms, showcasing exquisite tapestries and period furnishings and still inhabited by the Dowager who occasionally drops by to say hello to guests.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Our Spirit of Scotland tour guide offered us the opportunity to stop by the Clava Cairns. It’s well worth stopping for a visit to see the group of Bronze Age burial monuments dating back about 4,000 years.

Interact with raptors during your stops from sailing through the European waterways
Interacting with raptors. Photo credit: R.C. Staab


Wildlife on Display and on Your Arm

Scotland is home to a diverse range of native raptor species including golden eagles, white-tailed eagles, hen harriers, ospreys, hawks and various owl species. While mooring at Fort Augustus, cruises passengers are escorted inside the private Highland Club, located on the shores of Loch Ness, in a beautifully renovated former abbey. Out on a grassy lawn, they are treated to a raptor experience not typically available in the Highlands.

One by one, the raptor handler/falconer brings out owls, hawks and even an American bald eagle – not native to Scotland – for a demonstration of flying. If the bird is willing, passengers are offered the opportunity to put on a special glove and have the bird fly to their arm.

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Near Loch Oich. Photo credit: R.C. Staab

An Unusual Selfie

There are plenty of opportunities to create memorable photo opportunities. At the front of the boat on the main deck, use the captain’s side view mirror to take a selfie while viewing the canal in the distance.

Visit Ben Nevis Winery for a variety of Scottish highland wine
Ben Nevis Winery. Photo credit: R.C. Staab


Sip Scottish Whiskey

When visiting Scotland, a compulsory experience is to taste Scottish Whiskey. There’s no better way to learn about Scottish whiskey and to sample different varieties than at the foot of  Scotland’s highest peak, Ben Nevis, where the Ben Nevis Distillery offers a captivating glimpse into the world of whisky production. Established in 1825, it is one of the oldest licensed distilleries in the country. A guided tour provides an in-depth look at the whisky-making process. The tour concludes with a complimentary tasting of Ben Nevis whiskies, showcasing the distillery’s rich and fruity flavors.

The Spirit of Scotland docked in the European waterways
The Spirit of Scotland. Photo credit: R.C. Staab


How to Book a Canal Barge Cruise

The first stop to book a canal barge cruise in the Scottish Highlands is at European Waterways. For 2025, prices for a six-night a 6 night cruise aboard the 12-passenger Spirit of Scotland start at $6,550 per person (based on 2 people sharing a cabin). The price includes all gourmet meals, fine wines, an open bar for the duration of the cruise, daily escorted excursions, admissions and private transfers at either end of the cruise. Cruises run from early April through the end of October.

Full barge charters are also available for families and groups. There are also themed barge cruises such as whiskey cruises with visits to several of Scotland’s oldest distilleries, a golf cruise to play at some of Scotland’s most exclusive courses and a garden cruise to spend more time exploring Cawdor Castle gardens and other famed gardens.

Listen to the Scottish bagpipes as you travel the Caledonian Canal on the European waterways.
Hear the Scottish bagpipes as you travel the Caledonian Canal. Photo credit: R.C. Staab
R.C. Staab is a New York-based author, playwright, musical theater writer and lyricist. His latest book, New York City Scavenger: The Ultimate Search for New York City’s Hidden Treasures, was published in Spring 2023. His first book 100 Things to Do at the Jersey Shore Before You Die was published in 2020 and is now in its second printing. In 2021, he walked the entire 139-mile coastline of the Jersey Shore from Sandy Hook to Cape May the book, generating more than 200,000 views on social media. He frequently contributes to New Jersey Monthly magazine and online travel publications. He is long-time member of the Society of American Travel Writers having traveled to 49 of the 50 US States and more than 60 countries. He specializes in cultural tourism, adventure travel and historical sites. His off-Broadway musicals and plays have been produced in New York, San Francisco, England and the Midwest. He is a two-time nominee for England’s Best New Song competition. He lives in New York City with his wife, Valari, and his dog, Skye.
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One response


  1. Hi Robert,
    Thank you we enjoyed your travel documentary it brought back the great memories of our trip.
    Thanks
    Rob and Nola Jones

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