If you’re going to Newfoundland, one of the most-sought after destinations is remote Fogo Island. The dreamy lodging choice is the superb Fogo Island Inn. Between the island’s mystical appeal, often shrouded in fog, and its timeless sense of place, a journey to Fogo and a stay at the Inn become one of life’s fondest memories.
How to Get to Fogo Island
It takes a bit of effort to get to the island, located off Newfoundland’s northeastern coast.
First arrive at Gander International Airport and rent a car, unless you can afford to hire a helicopter or private charter. Then drive an hour from Gander to the ferry dock in aptly named Farewell. This is probably the only place in Newfoundland where you will run into a queue. Arrive early as many day-trippers form a line, then, sit back and enjoy the 45-minute crossing to Fogo.
Once ashore, I found the sleepy island’s little-changed history gradually unfolds. I drove past brightly painted clapboard houses clustered in ten tiny fishing communities. Many stand on stilts at the water’s edge. Fishing boats bob gently in the harbor. The population is sparse, hovering around 2,100, but with a landmass four times the size of Manhattan. Only a few main roads traverse the 20-mile-long wind-swept and rock-strewn landscape.
Arriving at the Fogo Island Inn
While driving along, I eventually came to a sign for a hamlet called Joe Batt’s Arm. Joe was a former pirate who stayed on Fogo and gave up his life at sea. But, even without directions; one can’t miss the Fogo Island Inn. The Inn’s stark modern appearance may shock you.
How the Fogo Island Inn Came to Life
I had read that the Inn was the brainchild of visionary Zita Cobb, a Fogo Island native who left to work her way through the tech world and returned as a self-made millionaire. She came back with the commitment to bring new life to the island without disturbing the environment. She has succeeded. The Inn has successfully provided jobs and raised the global perception of the island.
The stunning, 29-room lodge including six suites, and winner of numerous architectural awards, transports the isle into the future. The eleven-year-old marvel, designed by Todd Saunders, a native of Newfoundland, still looks new. The Inn showcases a mixture of modern design and traditional craftsmanship. At first the building seems very out of place, but it takes its shape from the traditional cod fishing sheds and family saltbox houses. After a day of exploring, I recognized those shapes and understood the design.
Fogo Island Inn Pros & Cons
Pros
- Quiet & Remote: Visitors looking for a getaway to quiet, traditional fishing villages will love this remote island.
- Luxe Brand: The Fogo Island Inn is a Relais &Chateaux property, a brand known for the highest standards. Their properties encourage rich, local traditions.
- Luxe Feel: The understated rustic luxury interior of the Inn feels warm and inviting. All the furniture is handmade on the island. A lobby fireplace and bar welcome visitors with colorful, chic accents. Floor to ceiling windows offer premier views of the powerful Atlantic Ocean.
- Sustainability Commitment: The Inn promotes sustainability to the highest degree. The structure runs energy efficient, has solar thermal roof panels, uses no fossil fuels, avoids single-use plastic, and collects rainwater and filters it for reuse in toilets and laundry.
- Meals and Activities Included: Three meals, tea time, and activities are included. A special Community Host Program pairs each guest with a local resident for island orientation and history.
- Relax & Rejuvenate: The Inn is a place to relax, try the roof-top hot tubs and sauna, get a massage, or simply get out and embrace the untamed.
- No tipping policy.
- Access to a Car: If needed, the Inn will provide guests use of a car.
Cons
- Getting there: The remote location is difficult to reach.
- Medical Care: The island has no hospital or advanced medical care.
- Expensive: Service at the Inn is exceptional, genuinely top-of-the-line, but rates are very steep. Guests willing to pay, understand that 100% of operating surpluses return to the island through a charitable foundation, Shorefast, benefiting the residents. Don’t be surprised if a few incognito celebrities are among the guests.
- Not Great for Kids: While a few suites can accommodate children who must be at least 8-years old, the Inn and island feel like an adult escape or romantic vacation. Children would likely prefer more activity.
What Are the Rooms Like?
Upon registration, guests are provided Inn tours, if they desire. All are escorted to their room on the second or third floors. King and queen beds are topped with signed hand-sewn quilts. Room extras include a wood-burning stove for more heat on cold nights, a rocking chair and upholstered chair set before the dramatic wall of windows. My guest bedroom was wallpapered, and the bath was entirely done in white.
Pre-dawn coffee, tea, and scones are delivered in baskets outside your room. I could savor that first cup of coffee from the rocking chair watching icebergs pass by. Not a bad way to start a day!
The Restaurant and Bar
Fogo Islanders have always hunted, farmed, scavenged, and caught their food out of necessity. At the Inn, local fresh fish dominates the menu, with the hotel hiring foragers to source the island’s herbs, seaweed, berries, and greens. They aim for 80 percent of the ingredients to come from Fogo Island.
Guests dine on three meticulously prepared and artfully served gourmet meals each day. Afternoon tea is also available. Dinners, with multiple courses, resemble those in a Michelin-star restaurant. I loved this serving of moose tartare topped with tiny wildflowers.
The Community Host Program
A unique feature of the Fogo Island Inn is their Community Host Program. It matches a local resident with guests of the Inn to help orient them to the Island. These passionate, lifelong Fogo Islanders are pleased to offer their insights into the Island’s heritage. They have fished the Island’s shores, picked its berries, climbed its rocks, driven its roads, and walked its trails hundreds of times. They are intimately connected to their home and eager to pass on their extensive knowledge.
I spend an entire morning with Claire, who, it turns out, is one day younger than me. I listened to her Irish accent as she told her family tales and could easily relate them to the eras and events in my life. She drove me around the island, and we took a marvelous hike up Brimstone Head.
Island Must-Sees While Staying at the Inn
Brimstone Head, a rocky 160-foot outcropping, offers phenomenal views of Iceberg Alley. The bergs break off glaciers in Greenland and make a two-year slow journey southward. What a sight to see giant icebergs floating by in July. It’s a perfect photo and picnic spot, a moderate hike, and an incredible lookout for sunset.
Don’t miss the town of Tilting, founded by the Irish, that still looks much as it did 200 years ago. Many residents, now fourth and fifth-generation descendants, maintain their livelihood as fishermen and artisans.
Art continues to play a significant role in the lives of Fogo Islanders: pottery making, quilting, wood crafting, and boat building. Shorefast has built four contemporary studios for resident artists that you can visit.
Hiking is the leading pastime for visitors and residents with miles of well-marked trails. Art gallery tours, photography outings, boat trips, biking, and stargazing bring visitors a fulfilling range of pursuits.
Overall, Fogo Island becomes the ultimate tranquil retreat from frenzied urban life. Your stay at the Fogo Island Inn will connect you to this special place as few other hotels ever can.
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