Budget-friendly vs. Splurge-worthy: Canadian Rockies Ski Vacation

In this series, I’ll introduce one fabulous destination and show you where to stay, savor and play on two different budgets. Splurge-worthy picks are all about luxury resorts, fine dining and individualized experiences while budget-friendly ideas offer bargain digs, cheap (but good) eats and free or inexpensive activities to enjoy. I’ll provide money-saving tips (even for the splurges) and ensure that whatever your budget is, you’ll be able to make the most of your vacation.

Highlights of a Canadian Rockies Ski Vacation on Two Budgets

Legendary champagne powder snow, jagged glacial peaks and vibrant mountain communities make the Canadian Rocky Mountains a bucket list ski vacation no matter what your budget.

Are you ready to explore more destinations? Get inspired with our newsletter!

Stay: Where to sleep on your Canadian Rockies ski vacation

Our splurge-worthy choice is the Sunshine Mountain Lodge:

• At 7,200 feet, the 84-room resort is the only high-alpine accommodation in Banff (In fact, we puzzled over the location when we arrived, not realizing that we needed to take a gondola to reach the resort, three miles farther up the mountain).
• Rocky Mountain peaks, as far as the eyes can see, surround you, including the distinctive Mount Assiniboine, known as Canada’s Matterhorn.
• You’ll have ski-in ski-out access to 3,300 acres of terrain across three mountains on both sides of the Continental Divide.
• After a day of gliding across two provinces, enjoy apres-ski at one of the village’s eateries and relax in the sauna and the large outdoor hot tub.
• Or chillax in your suite. With a balcony, fireplace, a large soaker tub and floor-to-ceiling windows, the accommodations are a luxury retreat themselves.

An alternative splurge choice is the historic Fairmont Banff Springs, known as Canada’s Castle in the Rockies. Shuttles whisk guests to any of the three Banff ski resorts: Sunshine, Lake Louise and Norquay.

The glorious mountain scenery is not confined by the borders of Canada’s parks.

Drive from Banff and head down Highway 93. In less than an hour, you’ll find yourself in the East Kootenay region of south-eastern British Columbia surrounded by mountains, the Rocky Mountains to the east and the Purcell Mountains to the west. In this alpine wonderland, there are natural hot springs, ski resorts and friendly communities. And a more budget-friendly ski vacation.

Our budget-friendly recommendation for accommodation is in Cranbrook, located 175 miles south of Banff, at the indigenous-owned St. Eugene Resort:

• This 125-room resort offers stylish rooms, an on-site casino, four onsite restaurants and a pool complex comprising of a heated outdoor pool, hot tubs, sauna and a steam room.
• During the summer, there’s a full-service summer RV Park next door and a golf course (open from mid-April to mid-October).
• The expansive 300-acre property, set along the St. Mary’s River, is a peaceful base to explore the region’s outdoor recreational activities, including downhill skiing at Kimberley Alpine Resort, a scenic 30-minute drive away.
• Winter rates at St. Eugene start at $80, and package deals can discount this price even further.  

Other inexpensive stays in Cranbrook can be found at the slew of chain hotels and motels on the town’s main strip. A good choice is the centrally located Prestige Rocky Mountain Resort with a pool and hot tub ($115). If you prefer to stay at the ski resort, Kimberley Alpine Resort has ski-in ski-out accommodations, which are reasonable if you avoid peak times. Polaris Lodge is located right in the village ($160), and there are numerous condo units on the mountain available on Airbnb and VRBO at varying price points.

SheBuysTravel Money-saving Tip: With cleaning and service fees, stays at Airbnbs are not always a good value, but there are ways to save. First, many units have direct booking or social media sites, where you can reserve at a cheaper rate as the host saves on the 18-25% charge of the listing service. If you can’t find one, it’s still worth contacting the host directly and politely requesting a discount for your stay. This is especially effective with newer listings. Booking for a week or longer often generates substantial discounts as does sharing bigger units with friends and family.

Savor: Where to eat on your Canadian Rockies ski vacation

At Sunshine Mountain Lodge:

• Splurge on an elevated après-ski experience at Eagle’s Nest Canadian Bistro. Locally focused dishes like bison hatchet steaks, Alberta beef tenderloin and vegan Wellington are best enjoyed with a glass of red wine and a window seat with a view of the mountains ($55).
• An unmissable hangout is the resort’s Mad Trapper’s Smokehouse. Housed in the original Canadian Pacific log cabin where the ski lodge was born in 1928, it’s a local institution and is as eccentric as the character it was named after. The walls are filled with memorabilia, the beer is cold and the food is pub grub at its best, especially the poutine ($25).

The town of Banff’s culinary scene shines with choices as diverse as the visitors who gravitate here to marvel at the town’s majestic glacially sculpted landscape:

• A splurge-worthy indulgence is Chuck’s Steakhouse, which might sound as rustic as its décor but is definitely not. All of its 100% Alberta beef is dried in-house, grilled to perfection and served by knowledgeable and personable waitstaff who will attend to all your ‘beefs’ whether it’s the 45-day dry-aged short loin T-bone or the rib-eye bone-in wagyu ($100).
• Other stellar restaurant choices in town are Fat Ox, Anejo, Hello Sunshine and Banff Ave. Brewing Co.

Getting off the tourist-beaten path means local Canadian prices for meals, and you’ll get a lot more bang-up meals for your buck in Cranbrook and Kimberley.

• Heid Out Restaurant in downtown Cranbrook is a local favorite with award-winning craft brews made on the premises. Its original dishes showcase the flavors of the region but often add a fusion twist to menu items like Alberta beef melt with brie cheese and a Portuguese bun, bison Bolognese bowl and Korean crispy chicken ($25).
• Encore Brewery is another Cranbrook brewery worth visiting. It not only serves crisp beer with quirky and alliterate labels like Liftoff Lager, a ludicrously luscious lunar lager, but is also a bowling alley. Our family had a blast competing for top scores and the last piece of delicious pizza ($20).
• St. Eugene Resort’s  Kiʔsuʔk k̓ikiⱡ  restaurant means ‘good food’, and it not only lives up to Ktunaxa name, but also delivers incredible value, with daily specials ($11-15) that often include casino credit (however if you spend $40 more than the credit at the casino as we did then the meal is not so budget-friendly).

SheBuysTravel Money-saving Tip:  Restaurants at ski villages tend to be on the pricier side. To mitigate costs, watch out for happy hours and daily specials. At Kimberley Alpine Resort, for example, Buckhorn & Main Mountain Eatery features a daily happy hour from 3-5 ($10 for a snack and drink).  The resort also has a large communal seating area behind the snack bar with a sink and microwave. Consider bringing your lunch and then enjoying an apres-ski bevy of your choice and some of Stemwinder Bar Grill’s addictive waffle fries at the end of the day on the slopes.

Play: What to do on your Canadian Rockies ski vacation

Skiing, of course! The dry, cold climate of the Rockies produces some of the best powder snow in the world—light, fluffy, and perfect for carving down mountain slopes.

• A lift ticket at Banff Sunshine Village ($125) gives you access to 3,300 acres of terrain across three mountains, two provinces and 145 trails.
• For a splurge, sign up for a private ski/snowboard lesson with an expert instructor who can lead you to unimagined heights whatever your level. Black diamond adrenaline junkies can tackle the Delirium Dive, one of North America’s most hair-raising runs with 2,000 feet of vertical. Green-level skiers can glide above the clouds with cruiser runs like Prune Pickers Pass, where you’ll be treated to panoramic views of the continental divide at 7,825ft.

SheBuysTravel Money-saving Tip: Purchase lift tickets online in advance to save money and time. With the Ski Banff App, you can head straight to the gondola with your mobile ticket. If you’re staying for a week or longer, consider the Sunshine Super Card, which gives you three free days of skiing.

Want a break from skiing?

• Snowshoeing above the treeline in deep white powder is a signature Banff winter experience. If you’re staying at the Sunshine Mountain Lodge, snowshoe tours are included. If not, outfitters like White Mountain Adventure offer guided excursions to Sunshine Meadows that include transportation from town, gondola and chairlift tickets, snowshoes, trekking poles, hot chocolate and snacks ($105).
• A final well-deserved splurge to consider after all your outdoor activity is a massage at Sunshine’s Verde’s Day Spa. Ahhhh….

Though not as famous as Banff’s Sunshine Village, our budget-friendly ski destination in the Kootenay Rockies appeals in other ways with uncrowded slopes, a friendly community/family vibe and value for money. On a recent visit for some family skiing over the holidays, we were flabbergasted. Why weren’t there more cars in the parking lot? Where were the lineups at the lift?

• Lift tickets at Kimberley Alpine Resort give you access to about 1,800 acres of terrain, 2,464 feet of vertical, an award-winning ski school, 80 trails and, of course, the fine white powder snow this region is famous for. Advanced skiers will enjoy the Black Forest area with its steep slopes and glade runs, but even beginners can glide in this section along the ridge and see the drops that they might (or might not) aspire to tackle one day.

SheBuysTravel Money-saving Tip:  Many ski resorts, including Sunshine and Kimberley, recruit volunteer hosts to help skiers, who are new to the mountain. At Kimberley, guides are by the quad lifts at 10:30 AM and 1 PM, ready to share their expertise, whether you’re looking for a ‘secret’ warm-up cabin, the best mogul runs or the easiest way down the mountain (if you’re a beginner like me).

Many of the best attractions near here are very budget-friendly – -they’re free or have nominal costs.

• Lace up your skates (rentals available at the ski resort) and head into town (5 minutes away), where there are indoor and outdoor rinks or go a little farther (20 min) to Wasa Lake Provincial Park. Here, you’ll have beautiful views of the Canadian Rockies as you glide along the two-mile path.
• About an hour away, you’ll find the ‘World’s Largest Skating Path’, a 34-km groomed trail that connects the towns of Invermere and Windermere. Cross-country skiing tracts run alongside the ice path if that appeals more.
• Hiking trails also crisscross the region. Right next to the Kimberley Alpine Ski Resort is the Trickle Creek Golf Course, where multi-use trails are maintained during the winter months. To my delight, the paths led to lookouts with panoramic views of the misty mountains and through stands of evergreens with their boughs adorned with snow. As I walked, a sense of peace fell over me.

There’s nothing like a mountain vacation, eh?

Did you know…

• The Canadian Rockies are home to some of the longest ski seasons in North America, with Banff Sunshine often staying open until late May.
• Banff National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for its stunning glaciers, wildlife, and alpine landscapes. Established in 1885, it’s Canada’s first national park.
•  Kimberley Alpine Resort features North America’s largest night-skiing area.
• The Kootenay Rockies are famous for their hot springs, perfect for post-ski relaxation.
• Wildlife in the Canadian Rockies include big-horned sheep, elk, moose, wolves and bears.  Sightings are common, especially along the highways.
• The Purcell Mountains are a 300-mile-long mountain range extending across southeastern British Columbia and into northwestern Montana and northern Idaho. In the US, the Purcells are classified as a subrange of the Rocky Mountains, but in Canada they are considered to be a separate range.

Getting there:

• To Banff Sunshine Village: Fly into Calgary International Airport (YYC), then drive 90 minutes west to Banff. The Sunshine Village gondola takes guests up to the resort from the parking area.
• To the Kootenay Rockies: Fly into Cranbrook International Airport (YXC), which is ten minutes from St. Eugene Resort. Kimberley Alpine Resort is a 30-minute drive from Cranbrook. From Calgary, it’s an approximate four-hour drive.

Note: All prices are in US dollars.

Read More

• Budget-friendly vs. Splurge-worthy: Montebello, Quebec
• Budget-friendly vs. Splurge-worthy: Guadalajara, Mexico
• Budget-friendly vs. Splurge-worthy: The 1000 Islands
• From Luxe to Budget-Friendly: The Top 20 Hotels in Boise Idaho