Discovering Medieval Germany Solo on a River Cruise

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River cruise ship MS George Eliot moored beside the riverbank in Ochsenfurt, Germany.
The MS George Eliot moored along the riverbank in Ochsenfurt, Germany. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz

Sailing solo through Germany’s storybook towns felt like stepping into a living fairytale—no rental car, no repacking—just castles, cathedrals and cobbled streets unfolding beyond my cabin window.

The writer was hosted.

A Classic Cruise, Rich in History

Reflection of a red-tiled building with a tall spire in the calm waters of the Danube-Main Canal during a river cruise in Germany.
Spires rising above red-tiled rooftops, reflected like a painting in the calm waters of the Danube-Main Canal—echoing the timeless beauty of Germany’s river towns. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz

I cruised from Nuremberg to Mainz aboard the MS George Eliot, passing through 50+ locks along the Danube-Main Canal and Main River. Operated by Riviera Travel—a UK-based company with 40 years of experience in the river cruise market—the journey included guided port stops, quiet mornings and new friends made over afternoon tea. Best of all? Their upcoming ship debut could reshape solo river cruising for good.

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Nuremberg: A Historic Start

Nuremberg Castle, medieval fortress overlooking Nuremberg, Germany.
Nuremberg Castle: A towering symbol of imperial power and the heart of the Holy Roman Empire. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz
Tourists outside the Nazi Documentation Center in Nuremberg.
Visitors gather outside the Nazi Documentation Center in Nuremberg, a museum dedicated to confronting the city’s World War II history. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz

We boarded the MS George Eliot in the late afternoon, settled in and explored Nuremberg the next morning. Once the power center of the Holy Roman Empire, its medieval towers and Nuremberg Castle still stand guard over cobbled streets and half-timbered houses. But not all of its past is picturesque—our tour also visited the Nazi Party Rally Grounds and the courthouse where the Nuremberg Trials were held.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Book a cruise with an extra pre-cruise night. Nuremberg’s deep history deserves time on foot.

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Bamberg: A UNESCO City of Baroque and Beer

Old City Hall on a man-made island in Bamberg, Germany
The historic Old City Hall, perched on a man-made island in Bamberg, a UNESCO World Heritage City. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz
Old City Hall with tall clock tower spanning the Regnitz River in Bamberg, Germany.
Bamberg’s Old City Hall, crowned with its towering clock, gracefully spans the Regnitz River, bridging history and architectural charm to the town. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz

Bamberg still impresses—baroque palaces, arched bridges, and the 11th-century Bamberg (home to Pope Clement II) remain intact, spared in WWII. I wandered through winding lanes, past 14th-century breweries and admired the half-timbered Altes Rathaus, or Old City Hall, perched over the river on a man-made island.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Try the local Rauchbier—a specialty of Bamberg. You’ll smell the smoke before you sip.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber: A Living Fairytale

Colorful medieval buildings and shops line a cobbled street in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany.
Medieval street scene in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, where the original architecture dates back to the 12th–16th centuries. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz
Stacked Schneeball pastries in a shop window in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, dusted with powdered sugar
A tower of powdered sugar-dusted Schneeball pastries stacked in a Rothenburg shop window—this crispy treat is the town’s beloved local specialty. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz

After mooring in Ochsenfurt, we transferred by coach to Rothenburg ob der Tauber—one of Germany’s best-preserved walled towns.

Turreted towers, cobbled lanes and medieval merchant houses made me believe I’d stepped back in history. I climbed the town’s walls, browsed artisan shops and sampled a Schneeball, Rothenburg’s signature fried pastry dusted with sugar.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Don’t miss the famous Käthe Wohlfahrt—Christmas store and museum—it’s open year-round and packed with ornaments, nutcrackers and holiday magic.

Würzburg: A UNESCO Gem of Baroque Grandeur

View of Marienberg Fortress overlooking the Main River in Würzburg, with colorful flowers in the foreground.
Marienberg Fortress stands high on a hill overlooking the Main River in Würzburg, Germany. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz

Shaped by royalty and religion, the city dazzles with architectural drama. The UNESCO-listed Würzburg Residenz stuns with its sweeping staircase, mirrored halls and Tiepolo’s vast ceiling fresco—one of the largest in the world.

Interior of the Würzburg Residenz showing the grand staircase and expansive Baroque ceiling fresco by Tiepolo.
The grand staircase of the Würzburg Residenz, crowned by Tiepolo’s soaring ceiling fresco—a masterpiece of Baroque artistry. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz

Though heavily bombed in 1945, Würzburg’s landmarks have been meticulously restored. After touring the palace and its formal gardens, I sipped crisp Franconian wine, reflecting on the city’s legacy of artistic and political power. We docked in the center of town, with time to explore at our own pace.

Wertheim: A Scenic Ruin with a Story

View of hikers approaching the ivy-covered ruins of 12th-century Wertheim Castle overlooking the Main River and town below.
Stone ruins of the 12th-century Wertheim Castle rise above the Main River, with ivy-covered walls and sweeping views of the town below. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz

I hiked with a small group up to castle ruins perched above the Main River, where crumbling medieval walls frame views over half-timbered rooftops. Wertheim Castle, built in the 12th century, has remained in the possession of one noble family for generations.

A 17th-century explosion—when a servant left a candle near gunpowder—blew much of it apart. Today, moss-clad stone and sweeping views make the site unforgettable.

We climbed at a relaxed pace, and the group’s laid-back energy made it feel more like a casual wander than a formal tour.

Miltenberg: Memory in the Details

View of Miltenberg along the Main River, showing a bridge over the water and the medieval Mildenburg Castle rising above the town.
Mildenburg Castle, built in the late 12th century, towers above the Main River in Miltenberg, Germany. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz

Approaching along the Main River, the steep half-timbered houses on the hills above Miltenberg gave the town a timeless feel. Known as the “Pearl of the Main,” its medieval architecture remains remarkably intact, having been miraculously spared during World War II.

Central square in Miltenberg, Germany, with half-timbered houses and a medieval stone fountain.
Miltenberg’s central square, framed by charming half-timbered houses and featuring a historic medieval fountain. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz
Brass Stolpersteine embedded in a cobblestone street in Miltenberg, honoring Jewish residents lost during the Holocaust.
Brass “stumbling stones” embedded in the cobblestone street mark former homes of Jewish families lost during the Holocaust. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz

What stayed with me most weren’t the houses or river views: it was the Stolpersteine, or “stumbling stones,”— brass plaques set into cobbles to honor Jewish residents taken during the Holocaust. Each sits outside a former home, engraved with names and dates.

They’re easy to miss—and unforgettable once noticed.

Mainz: A Fitting Finale on the River

Blue stained-glass windows by Marc Chagall in St. Stephen’s Church, Mainz, glowing above the altar as a symbol of post-WWII reconciliation.
Chagall’s stained-glass windows in St. Stephen’s Church, Mainz — a gift of peace and reconciliation after the tragedy of WWII. Photo Credit: Sharon Kurtz

Our final stop, Mainz, marks where the Rhine meets the Main. At St. Stephen’s Church, Chagall’s stained-glass windows cast blue light across ancient stone. The city’s Roman roots surfaced in hidden corners, like excavated baths beneath a shopping center.

Life Onboard the MS George Eliot

Andre Gomes at the back of the MS George Eliot as it leaves Würzburg on a river cruise.
Cruise Concierge Andre Gomes stands at the stern of the MS George Eliot as the ship departs Würzburg along the Main River. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz

Accommodations/Cabins

Interior of my MS George Eliot cabin with a French balcony and calming décor.
My cabin aboard the MS George Eliot featured calming tones, smart storage, and a French balcony for peaceful river views. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz

Built in 2018, the MS George Eliot has 70 cabins, including four master suites and four junior suites. My cabin, featuring a French balcony, offered everything I needed: a cozy bed, charging ports, ample storage and a spacious bathroom. Waking up to the sounds of the river was a joy. Watching the water drift past from the upper deck quickly became my favorite activity—even though parts were closed under low bridges and during locks.

Dining Experience

Crew member serves up spaghetti Bolognese in front of bar with wine bottles in the MS George Eliot’s dining room.
A Crew member serves up spaghetti Bolognese during a casual lunch in the MS George Eliot’s dining room. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz

Meals were served in the main dining room, with another intimate dining space at the ship’s aft that offered a great view. I appreciated the open seating, which made it easy for solo travelers to connect and share stories.

Plate of Holstein Schnitzel topped with a sunny-side-up egg, served over German potato salad.
Regional favorite: Holstein Schnitzel, a breaded pork cutlet topped with a fried egg, served over warm German potato salad. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz

Highlights included beautifully plated regional specialties that tasted as good as they looked—schnitzel, sauerbraten and bratwurst with sauerkraut—paired with local wines that changed with the scenery.

Events like high tea and an ice cream social added extra fun to our days. A new friend with dietary restrictions was especially impressed by the custom vegan meals prepared just for her.

Crew members serving tea and sweets during an onboard High Tea
Afternoon treat: Crew members serving tea and sweets during a relaxed onboard High Tea. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz

Entertainment & Amenities

Guests unwind in the ship’s lounge with live evening entertainment and after-dinner drinks, a relaxed end to the day onboard. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz

Evenings were mellow— live music, trivia and cocktails. There was a book nook, board games and a comfortable lounge and bar with panoramic views, perfect for reading or conversation.

Excursions

Tour group standing atop the Wertheim Castle ruins, overlooking the Main River and town below.
Group tour members high above Wertheim, exploring the 12th-century castle ruins with panoramic views over the Main River. Photo caption: Sharon Kurtz

All daily excursions were included, with options for various fitness levels. Maps were provided for self-guided exploring. That mix of structure and freedom mattered most.

The Solo Experience: Quiet Moments, Honest Perspective

Author Sharon Kurtz standing in the airy, light-filled atrium of the MS George Eliot river cruise ship.
Author Sharon Kurtz stands in the light-filled open atrium of the MS George Eliot, designed to feel spacious and inviting. Photo credit: André Gomes

I was one of a few solo travelers—outnumbered by couples. While some moments felt companionable, others reminded me that solo travel can get lonely in a paired-up world. Communal dining, trivia nights, and afternoon tea offered easy ways to connect, though not always seamlessly.

With just 130 guests, the ship felt intimate and relaxed. Still, the single supplement fee and couple-centric vibe made one thing clear: a solo-only river cruise is long overdue.

Coming in 2027: A Game-Changer for Solo Travelers—and Friends Who Like Their Own Space

Captain Bálint Paricsi seated in the wheelhouse of the MS George Eliot, looking out over the river through front-facing windows.
Captain Bálint Paricsi at the helm of the MS George Eliot, seated in the wheelhouse and surveying the river ahead through wide front windows. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz

Riviera Travel is doing something revolutionary: in 2027, the MS George Eliot will become the world’s first river cruise ship designed exclusively for solo travelers.

“It’s unprecedented in our industry,” said Marilyn Conroy, Riviera’s executive VP of business. “And no—it’s not a dating ship. It’s for people who want their own cabin without paying double.”

A Solo Ship Designed for Freedom

View of the  stern of the MS George Eliot docked in Mainz at the end of a river cruise.
Aft view of the MS George Eliot moored along the Main River in Mainz, marking the final stop of our cruise. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz

The new ship will host just 68 guests, each in their own full-size stateroom. No single supplements. No cabin sharing. Just thoughtfully crafted itineraries on the Rhine, Danube and Moselle—including a new 14-night cruise.

All-inclusive pricing covers excursions, an open bar from 10 a.m. to midnight and nearly a 2:1 crew-to-guest ratio. No tricky bills. No awkward splits.

Not Just for Solo Travelers

Cruise guests—a mother and her two daughters—enjoying wine together on Würzburg’s Old Main Bridge.
Two daughters and their mother, fellow cruise guests, share a glass of Franconian wine outside the wine shop on Würzburg’s Old Main Bridge. Photo credit: Sharon Kurtz

While designed with solo travelers in mind, this ship is also perfect for friends or groups who enjoy traveling together—but want privacy when the day ends.

It’s for girlfriends celebrating milestones, book club buddies or anyone craving both connection and their own space.

Because traveling solo shouldn’t mean traveling alone—or paying more for the privilege.

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Sharon Kurtz is a travel writer, photographer, and passionate explorer who turned a midlife pivot into her dream job. With over 250 published stories and visits to 70+ countries, she shares inspiring tales of solo adventures, women’s getaways, and 50+ travel. She’s the voice behind the podcast Wander the World with Sharon and a columnist for Lustre.net, where she celebrates women who are not done, not old, and still incredibly cool. Based in Austin, she brings destinations to life through vivid storytelling, stunning photography, and a deep love for culture, cuisine, and connection.
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