The writer was invited to a complimentary media trip aboard the Rocky Mountaineer, but the opinions expressed in this article are her own.
As a stay-at-home mother of three, I haven’t taken a solo vacation since before my first child was born 15 years ago. So when I was offered the chance to try the Rocky Mountaineer’s “Passage to the West” train route—a luxury train ride that takes passengers from Vancouver, British Columbia, to Canada’s gorgeous Rocky Mountains—this train-loving girl jumped at the chance.
After all: No kids. No husband. And a chance to climb the Rockies without once having to put on a pair of hiking boots (not to mention enjoy plush accommodations at hotels in Vancouver, Kamloops, and Banff)? Yes, please!
1. It’s All About Luxury
Here’s what you should know about me: I’ve got mummified McDonald’s french fries under the seat of my Mom car, and the only time I’ve ever flown first-class was during the pandemic, when nobody else wanted to fly, period. Luxury travel and first-class tickets are not my go-to.
But that changed quickly. Because this train delivers luxury the moment you step from the Vancouver station’s red carpet onto the Rocky Mountaineer’s pristine passenger cars. I’m talking roomy, heated seats that recline to varying degrees, three-course meals paired with fine Canadian wines, lavish hotels with plush robes in the closet, and beds that you sink into.
SheBuysTravel Tip: There are two classes of service; opt for GoldLeaf if you can afford it; it offers double-decker cars, slightly larger seats, and a separate dining room.
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2. It’s a Slow Ride
Rocky Mountaineer trains take their time. The train chugs at a steady 30 mph to ensure passengers can savor the scenery, wave at onlookers, and look for wildlife like moose, bears, and elk (which are harder to see than you might think).
And while there’s no WiFi on board (and spotty cell signal), your train “host” (who is also your food and beverage server) will regale you with stories about the sights and give you lessons on Canada’s train history, which began in the 1800s as a way to ferry people across the formidable landscape.
SheBuysTravel Tip: When you pass Canoe, British Columbia, Look for Doris on the front porch of her little yellow house on Shuswap Lake. She’s a Canadian woman who has waved to the train as it passes for more than 12 years.
3. The Hotels Are Even Nicer Than the Train
Don’t judge me, but after years of not getting to control the TV (or the bed), being alone in a hotel room is a vacation in itself. My Rocky Mountaineer package included two nights before and after the train trip—with stays at the historic Fairmont Vancouver and the gorgeously situated Rimrock Resort Hotel in Banff.
The train also stops midway through the ride at sundown (because looking out the window in the dark is no fun). You’lll stop in the small town of Kamloops, where passengers are bussed to the elegant Sandman hotel and picked up before sunrise the next day so they can head for the Rockies as the morning sunbeams poke their way into the sky.
SheBuysTip: While you won’t have time to explore Kamloops by day, you will be there for dinnertime. Try the fried pickles at The Noble Pig, a fantastic little brewery in quiet downtown Kamloops.
4. You Can Go Outside… On A Moving Train
Sitting for hours on end can make anyone feel sleepy, no matter how jaw-dropping the view. The Rocky Mountaineer’s outdoor viewing platform on the first level of the train makes the perfect pick-me-up, providing a quick windblown wakeup call—as well as a great place for fun selfies on the train.
SheBuysTravel Tip: Bring a camera or camera phone with a wrist (or neck) strap so you can take photos here without losing your camera to the wilderness should the train knock you off balance mid-shot.
5. Solo Traveling is Easy When You’re Forced to Socialize
GoldLeaf passengers eat in the dining room together at tables of four—whether you know each other or not. This might feel awkward at first, but by the second or third meal, you’ll probably know your fellow passengers well enough to clink glasses as you watch the world go by.
Note: SilverLeaf class passengers don’t have a separate dining room and consequently eat their meals at their seats. Which may be a bonus for introverts.
6. Pretty Much All You Do is Eat, Drink, and Look Out the Window—But That’s Kind of the Point
You may not be working up an appetite on the train, but you’ll want to eat everything off your plate. The Rocky Mountaineer menu—curated by Chef Kaehlub Cudmore, a Vancouver native with a background in luxury dining—uses fresh, locally sourced ingredients for all his dishes, with meals cooked to order in adjacent galley kitchens on board the train.
Expect three-course meals with fresh takes on local fish like steelhead trout and salmon, locally-raised beef and chicken cooked to perfection, decadent desserts, and freshly-baked breads—all included in the cost of the trip.
7. Drinks are Also Included (And Canadian wine Will Be Your New Favorite)
Did you know Canada has its own wine country? After two days on the Rocky Mountaineer, you will! The train serves a variety of top wines from Canada’s Okanagan Valley, the country’s premiere grape-growing region. Your server will recommend particular wines to go with your meals, but you can also pair them with the view between meals.
Fun fact: This region is located between the 49th and 50th parallel, which makes it geographically comparable to famous wine-producing regions such as Champagne in France and Rheingau in Germany.
SheBuysTravel Tip: Drinking alcohol may increase the effects of altitude (and motion) sickness, so if you’re prone to either, take it easy.
8. You’ll Take LOTS Of Pictures
We all know nothing really happens on vacation if you don’t get a picture of it (right??), and the photo opps aboard the Rocky Mountaineer (and in Vancouver and Banff) are endless. To keep the views from the train crystal clear, the whole train is washed thoroughly at the end of every day. You can also take pictures from the outdoor viewing deck.
SheBuysTravel Tip: Keep your camera ready when the train goes through two “spiral tunnels” as you climb up the Rocky Mountains near Banff. These tunnels, an engineering marvel when they were completed in 1909, were designed to even out the steep grade as the train climbs toward Banff. The sharp turns make for great shots of the whole train as it snakes its way up the mountain.
9. Oh, And It’s NOT Kid-Friendly
Well, it’s not kid un-friendly, but with window-gazing being the main form of entertainment and a price tag that accounts for free-flowing booze and gourmet meals, most children will be bored, hungry, and expensive, should they join you aboard the train.
10. The Train Ride is Just Part of It
Can’t decide where to go in Canada? Perhaps the best part about the Rocky Mountaineer’s Passage to the West is that it connects two of Canada’s most popular destinations, Vancouver and Banff, allowing you to experience both places—and the train ride between them.
Here are some things to check off your Canada bucket list while you’re in Vancouver and Banff
- Walk across the wobbly Capilano Suspension Bridge over the Capilano River outside Vancouver
- Paddle a canoe across the glistening blue glacier water of Lake Louise
- Take the (terrifying) Banff Gondola to the breathtaking peaks of the Rocky Mountains (and take a selfie at the top).
- See the Northern Lights (you can see them from the parking lot of the Rimrock Resort in Banff!)
About The Rocky Mountaineer
A 34-year-old Canadian-run luxury train service, the Rocky Mountaineer runs four scenic routes through Canada plus a recently debuted US route that goes between Colorado and Utah. Featuring glass-domed cars perfect for sightseeing and swanky on-board service that harkens back to train travel’s opulent early days, it is often called one of the most beautiful train trips in the world.
And it’s no wonder: Its “First Passage to the West” route—which connects Vancouver to Banff with an overnight stop in Kamloops— traverses some of Canada’s most wild terrains, giving travelers a peek at beloved parts of the country otherwise only accessible by foot. Vast green fields give way to dusty brown canyons and thick, subalpine forests. Muddy-colored rivers become glacier-fed swirls of emerald water. Snow-capped mountains peek out from behind evergreens and yellow pines.
It feels at once adventurous (it’s the Rocky Mountains!) and easy (you don’t have to hike anywhere to see it).
Interested? When to Go & How Much it Costs
The Rocky Mountaineer runs from April to October, with September and June being the most popular months. Summer months are great if you want to avoid the cold, but forest fires toward the second half of summer can make the air smoky (fires can also shut down the route indefinitely, as they did last summer).
When it comes to pricing, there are two classes of service aboard the train that affect both the price and the experience:
- GoldLeaf – Goldleaf passengers ride on the second level of a double-decker car with a full dome glass window that stretches almost all the way around. They’ve also got a separate, first-floor dining room and a large outdoor viewing platform. Prices start at $2,392 for the two-day trip (this includes the train ride and the overnight in Kamloops).
- SilverLeaf – A single-level car with oversized windows (but not a full dome window, like the two-level cars). Meals are served at your sea, and the seats are slightly smaller. The outdoor viewing platform is smaller and more enclosed. Prices start at $1,752 for the two-day trip (this includes the train ride and the overnight in Kamloops).
SheBuysTravel Tip: If you want to save money, book a trip for April, which is the least expensive month to ride.
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