With a past that reads like noir fiction and architecture that looks like a movie set, Hot Springs, Arkansas, is hard to resist. In the early 1900s, visitors poured into this US National Park to bathe in thermal spring water tapped in elegant bathhouses. The heavy tourist traffic attracted colorful criminals and bootleggers who opened casinos and nightclubs long before Las Vegas became a gambling mecca.
Today, you can soak in a traditional bath, sip beers and sake brewed with the hot spring water and stroll along Central Avenue, the city’s shoppable main street with vibrant murals and art galleries. Start your days at one of the excellent breakfast diners in town. And try an Arkansas tamale for lunch at the BBQ joint that’s a favorite of President Bill Clinton, a native Arkansan. Here are many of the best things to do in Hot Springs, a uniquely American town.
Tour Hot Springs National Park
Head to the Fordyce on Bathhouse Row, home to the Hot Springs National Park Visitor Center. The Fordyce was once the largest and most opulent of the bathhouses. Self-guided tours are an option during operating hours (9 am – 5 pm). Ranger-led tours are available daily at 11 am and 3 pm. Find information about seasonal guided trail walks at the Visitor’s Center.
Ranger Cane West led our group through the Fordyce, providing an overview of the development of Hot Springs and the National Park. The United States absorbed this region, home to the native Quapaw, as part of the Louisiana Purchase. Discovery of the springs led to an economic boom as tourists poured into town to reap the healing benefits of bathing in the waters. President Andrew Jackson legislatively “reserved” Hot Springs in 1832; however, this pre-dated the founding of the National Park Service so the city continued to grow up and around the springs. Hot Springs National Park was established as America’s 18th national park in 1921, providing the springs with federal protection.
The Bathhouse Experience
Visitors flocked to “The Spa City” for multiple-week, prescription-ordered stays to receive daily baths from licensed attendants. The waters were believed to heal multiple ailments including polio and arthritis. As modern medical treatments developed, the bathhouses declined in popularity, leading to their eventual closure, except the Buckstaff which still offers a traditional bathing treatment. Read on to learn about my bathing experience.
While touring the Fordyce, visitors can see the locker rooms, tubs, saunas and other hydrotherapy devices including the intimidating needle shower.
There are no outdoor thermal pools for bathing in Hot Springs because the water temperature is a scalding 143 degrees. However, display springs are accessible behind Bathhouse Row. Ranger West explained that there’s a scientific percolation going on a mile and a half below the surface. Pressure from a geological fault line forces the water up and out, after it’s boiled for 4,400 years. It’s a pretty awesome concept to ponder as you watch the steam float above the city fountains.
Visit the Gangster Museum of America
The most notorious criminals of the ’20s, ’30s and ’40s visited Hot Springs. Some, like Owen “Owney” Madden, made the small mountain town his home after he was “encouraged” by NYS authorities to relocate after his release from New York’s Sing Sing prison. Visitors spending time in the Hot Springs baths were looking for things to do when they weren’t soaking and the mobsters were happy to provide casinos, companionship and moonshine.
The Gangster Museum is organized into a series of galleries designed to provide insight into Hot Springs history, focusing on its more colorful characters and episodes. Notorious criminals, including Al Capone, operated in plain sight of local authorities for decades. The casinos, nightclubs and brothels kept the local economy booming and generous donations to community groups bought the city’s silence.
Tours through the galleries are led by costumed guides who play the part of a 1920s-era goodfella. There are short films narrated by the museum’s founder Robert Raines who’s a goofy savant about all things Hot Springs. It’s a delightful romp through the era when the criminal exploits of Bonnie and Clyde and John Dillinger made national headlines.
SheBuysTravel Tip: It wasn’t all fun and games in Hot Springs. A memorial by the National Parks welcome sign honors U.S. Park Ranger James Cary who was killed by bootleggers while on patrol.
Take the Waters
You can visit Hot Springs and choose not to soak in the thermal waters, but why would you? Three ways to soak are available on Bathhouse Row. The experiences and prices vary. It’s important to note that the waters are hot and are not recommended for individuals with certain medical conditions.
Stay at The Hotel Hale
Built in 1892, the building currently housing The Hotel Hale is the oldest on Bathhouse Row. Nine unique luxury suites are available for overnight guests. Each suite has a large soaking tub that taps the hot thermal waters, so you can soak in private in the comfort of your room. The Hotel Hale has an onsite, reservations-recommended restaurant, Eden. It’s a popular year-round spot for weekend brunch whatever the weather. You’ll be dining indoors, but it feels like a garden space thanks to a full roof skylight and living plant wall. The room rate in the least expensive suite – The Superior – is $235 per night (rates current at the time of publication).
SheBuysTravel Tip: Be nice to the valet. It might be the owner, who fills in when the need arises. He also happens to be the mayor of Hot Springs.
Take a Bath with Your Besties
A group bathing experience is available at the Quapaw Baths and Spa, located on Bathhouse Row in the Spanish Colonial Revival building, constructed in 1922. It currently houses several public thermal bathing pools set at different temperatures. After changing into your bathing suit and flip-flops in the locker room, dip in and out of the pools until you find one that’s just right for you. It’s a fun group activity. Private bathing, massage services, facials and blow-outs are available and there’s an on-site cafe. The public baths are a walk-in, first come, first served option. Rates are $25 per person plus tax (2024).
Soak it Old School
If you’re ready to go the full Monty, The Buckstaff continues its historic bathing tradition, one they’ve been offering to guests since 1912. Queue up for the morning (8 am – 11:45 am) or afternoon (1:15 – 3 pm) sessions. Reservations for baths or massages are not accepted. After signing a liability release, you’re ushered to the single-sex locker room. An attendant directs you to a curtained stall with a locker. Strip down to your birthday suit and the attendant wraps you in a sheet, toga-style. Demure patrons can wear a bathing suit.
Buckstaff Bath Ritual
You’ll wait with other ladies until your name’s called, and then you’re ushered into the tub room. Rows of baths, separated by curtains, line the room. You shed your sheet and an attendant helps you into the warm mineral waters and turns on the jets, a propulsion system that resembles a small outboard motor. Once I put the “OMG, I’m going to be electrocuted fear” out of my head, I was able to relax for the 20-minute soak.
I was retrieved by the bath attendant and ushered through three more treatments including a sitz bath that targets the lower back, a lie-down with hot body towels and a cold face compress and a steam experience my fellow travelers collectively referred to as the “hot box.” It’s a steel cabinet with a cut-out for your head. Picture a magician locking his lovely assistant inside and then lopping off her noggin. Despite the horror film feel, it was the best steam experience I’ve ever had. I don’t like the out-of-breath feeling I get in traditional steam rooms and saunas. Having my head in the air let me enjoy the sweat.
If you want a massage, you add your name to a list and wait for a masseuse who delivers a 20-minute full-body treatment. There are a limited number of massage slots available so, if it’s something you definitely want to do, plan to arrive at the opening of the morning or afternoon session. The traditional bathing package with massage is $89 (2024).
SheBuysTravel Tip: Do not expect a luxury spa treatment. This is a very public, very institutional bathing experience. However, if you can push past the feeling that you’ve been arrested and you’re getting washed down before entering your cell block, it’s invigorating. I felt like a million bucks afterward and had a great night’s sleep.
Taste the Waters
Bathing is one way to experience the hot springs. Another is to taste them. Fountains along Central Avenue dispense the warm thermal waters; you can fill a water bottle and sip as you wander around town. I expected the sulfury smell of Yellowstone’s bubbling springs but there is no odor or taste to the mineral water which is why two local brewers are tapping it to create sensational sips.
Origami Sake
Sake in Arkansas? It seemed odd to me until Origami Sake founder Ben Bell explained that Hot Springs is an ideal sake brewing location for two reasons:
1. There’s a constant supply of preheated water; and
2. Arkansas is the top rice-producing state in the US.
Bell’s 15-year sake journey included two years in Hanamachi, Hot Springs’ sister city, learning the art of brewing before partnering with Matt Bell (no relation) to open the 22,000-square-foot production facility in 2023.
Guided tours – by reservation only – are conducted throughout the week. It’s fascinating to watch sustainably farmed Arkansas rice from Isbell Farms get mixed by hand with koji, a Japanese mold starter. The rice goes through a multi-week fermentation process mixing with hot, spring-fed well water. Bell notes that the water’s mineral composition never varies. “It’s as if it’s passed through a giant Brita filter.” The tour concludes with a tasting. Sake’s umami-based flavor profile makes it an easy brew to pair with foods. You can purchase Origami sake on-site or nationally at a growing number of liquor retailers.
Superior Bathhouse Brewery
Another weird and wonderful “only in Hot Springs” experience is a trip to the Superior Bathhouse Brewery, the only craft brewery located in a National Park. The original Superior was considered “the people’s bathhouse” when it opened in 1916 because it had the lowest rates on Bathhouse Row. It closed in 1983, and fell into disrepair until the National Park Service launched a restoration of the Row’s historic buildings. A call for business proposals to repurpose the Superior attracted Rose Schweikhart, a classical tuba player by day and homebrewer by night, who envisioned a unique brewery and family-style restaurant in the space.
The beers on tap are the only ones in the US brewed with natural thermal spring water. I ordered a flight that included a Hefeweizen, Dunkel, Cream Ale and the adorably named “OkTubafestbier.” My experience with flights is that I usually like only one, maybe two. However, I loved all four of the beers I tried. The flavor profile described on the menu was very defined in the sip. For example, I could taste the coriander and banana in the Whittington Wheat Hefeweizen. I’ll attribute this to a combination of the thermal water and Schweikhart’s brewing chops.
Pub-style food options include a variety of handhelds, salads and smashburgers. I wanted to (but didn’t) lick the bowl that contained the shareable steak nachos to get the very last of the pickled onions and Spring Training beer cheese. There are two-legged and four-legged kids’ menus and non-alcoholic, home-brewed root beer.
Wander Garvan Woodland Gardens
Located at the edge of the Ouichita Mountains, Hot Springs is home to five lakes, collectively known as the Diamond Lakes region. Popular outdoor activities include mountain biking, hiking, boating and fishing. My stay in town was brief so I didn’t get into the mountains or out on the water. But I got a glimpse of the natural beauty of Hot Springs at the Garvan Woodland Gardens.
A gift from local philanthropist Verna Cook Garvan to the University of Arkansas, this 210-acre botanical preserve includes lakeside landscapes, dramatic structures and the Garden of the Pine Wind, recognized as the 5th best Japanese garden in North America.
Other Garvan gardens include the Southern Inspiration Garden, Daffodil Hill and Flowering Border. The Bob and Sunny Evans Tree House is the highlight of the children’s garden that also includes a cave with a waterfall perfect for splish-splashing on a hot summer day. There’s a charming collection of fairy houses I photographed to help me create own in my home garden.
Here Come the Brides
The soaring glass panels and vaulted southern pine trusses make the interior of the Anthony Chapel feel like it’s nestled in the woodland. Take a peek inside when you visit and imagine it candlelit at dusk, decorated for a wedding. I swear I could hear an imaginary violinist playing “Pachelbel’s Canon.”
The Garvan Woodland Gardens are designed for walking. Some of the trails are paved; others are packed gravel. If you’re concerned about your mobility, consult with a staff member at the Welcome Center. Golf cart tours are an option, for an additional fee. Although the Gardens are open and lovely year-round, spring is an excellent time to visit. The Garden of the Pine Wind has dozens of flowering tree peonies and azaleas, Daffodil Hill has over 300 narcissi species and the Tulip Extravaganza is not to be missed. Over 150,000 bulbs spring up in March and April. Visiting later in the year? The annual Holiday Lights display features a dazzling display of 7 million lights!
Celebrate the Arts
I didn’t expect a vibrant art scene in a town known for moonshine, horse racing and gambling. But the arts are alive in Hot Springs, home to a downtown mural trail, galleries and an acclaimed film festival.
Hot Springs Mural Trail
Colorful murals celebrate the people, places and history of Hot Springs. A guide to 19 of the murals can be found here. Included are the street locations and info about the murals and the artists. I was fortunate to meet artist Pepe Gaka as he was working on his latest mural on the wall of Deluca’s Pizzeria. Gaka’s inspiration is Hanamaki, Japan. Hot Springs and Hanamaki have been sister cities since 1993 and enjoy a cultural and business partnership. Gaka expects it will take him approximately a month to complete the four-panel mural that traces a couple’s life journey through time and physical spaces including a bathhouse complex and temple.
Dryden Pottery
The Dryden family has been producing pottery by hand since 1946. Their Hot Springs workshop and showroom is open to the public and the fourth generation of artisans, including Zack Dryden, conduct demos. You’ll be inspired to head home and sign up for a pottery class because Zack makes it look so easy. But the ease with which Zack works the clay is the product of thousands of hours of practice. The pottery features classic profiles, like Grecian urns and ruffle neck vases, but the bright colors and iridescent glaze give them a contemporary look. Pieces are signed by the artist so they make a wonderful Hot Springs collectible.
First Friday Gallery Walk
Held monthly since 1989, the First Friday Gallery Walk is arguably the most popular recurring community event in Hot Springs. From 5 pm – 9 pm, downtown galleries and shops exhibit artist works and serve refreshments along a two-mile route. Find the current month’s featured exhibits on the Hot Springs Area Cultural Alliance website. Sadly, my visit did not coincide with a First Friday, but I did check out the Justus Fine Art Gallery which is a great starting or ending point for the Central Avenue section of the Walk. Artist-owner Dolores Justus swaps out her feature exhibits monthly so the gallery is fresh for returning guests. During my visit, the central space in the airy, light-filled gallery featured carved redwood sculptures by native Arkansan Robyn Horn whose work is in the permanent collections of some of the world’s greatest museums including London’s Victoria and Albert.
Hot Springs Documentary Film Festival
For over 30 years, documentary filmmakers and fans head to Hot Springs for a two-week festival. The screenings take place in the ballrooms of the Arlington Hotel, one of the city’s dominant architectural landmarks currently undergoing a historic restoration. I attended a screening of the 1963 film Crisis: Behind a Presidential Commitment which offered an intimate glimpse into the decision-making by President John F. Kennedy and Attorney General Robert Kennedy when Governor George Wallace attempted to block the integration of the University of Alabama.
Other Hot Springs Annual Events:
- Shortest St. Patrick’s Day Parade (March)
- Northwoods Mountain Bike Festival (November)
- Tom Daniel Holiday Chili Cook-Off (November)
Batter Up!
Hot Springs is known as The Birthplace of Major League Baseball Spring Training. Over half the major leaguers in MLB’s Hall of Fame, including Cy Young and Jackie Robinson, played in Hot Springs. The Hot Springs Historic Baseball Trail, a self-guided tour, takes visitors to locations associated with historic ballplayers, including the site where Babe Ruth hit baseball’s first 500+-foot home run.
Future major leaguers practice and play at the first-rate Majestic Park baseball complex. Hot Springs will host the Babe Ruth World Series on August 7 – 16, 2025. The best 14-year-old baseball teams from around the world will compete. The city’s 8th annual Baseball Weekend will coincide with the World Series. On August 8-9, six beloved All-Stars – Ron Guidry, Bret Saberhagen, Steve Garvey, Johnny Bench, Goose Gossage and Al Hrabosky – will meet and greet fans during this FREE event.
Wake Up with Breakfast
Breakfast is my least favorite meal at home. I’d be hangry by 10 am if I didn’t eat something, but that something’s usually a small bowl of oatmeal with blueberries. But on vacation, I like to seek out places where the locals go and, in Hot Springs, there are multiple options to get your egg on in the morning.
The Pancake Shop
It’s breakfast only at this local institution on Central Avenue. You know The Pancake Shop is popular because they have a water and coffee station outside to keep folks waiting for a table refreshed. Pancakes are the star attraction. I chose yummy buckwheat that I smeared with homemade apple butter. Want to try a little of this and a little of that? Almost everything on the menu can be ordered as a single item, so you don’t have to deal with an overwhelming stack of pancakes or too many eggs. Don’t pass up the fresh-squeezed orange juice. Current owner Keely DeSalvo grew up in the restaurant, purchased by her parents in 1966. DeSalvo also operates an artisan food boutique, The Savory Pantry, next door.
Best Cafe
This tiny gem is connected to the Best Court, a 1933 motor hotel where Joe DiMaggio and Marilyn Monroe once stayed. The menu features seasonal farm-to-table fare including duck bacon and locally foraged mushrooms. The highlight of my Best Cafe Combo was the creamy, cheesy Gouda grits. The vintage chic interior features marble tabletops, forest green seating and art deco lighting. It gives off “big city brunch” vibes with small-town friendly service.
Colonial Pancake and Waffle House
“If you want pancakes, go to The Pancake Shop. If you want waffles, you go to Colonial.” I received this spot-on advice from one of the Hot Springs locals I chatted with. Light-as-air waffles have deep divots to hold plenty of warm maple syrup. I was craving sugar during my stop so I ordered a jumbo cinnamon roll too. And, for those who like to spice up their eggs, you can choose one or more of their hot sauces to add a little zing.
More Places to Eat in Hot Springs
DeLuca’s Pizzeria
Order the burger as a starter but leave room for the pizza, awarded an 8.7/10 by Barstool founder David Portnoy. Chef/owner Anthony “Tony” Valinoti welcomes guests like family to DeLuca’s and he’s happiest when the restaurant tables groan with food. Originally a six-table pizza joint, DeLuca’s Pizzeria moved to its large, loud Central Avenue location in 2018.
The food is everything you’d expect a Brooklyn transplant to cook. Order the aforementioned steak burger medium rare or expect a scowl. It’s served with homemade pickles and American cheese on a Martin’s potato roll. The pillowy buns are not well known beyond the Northeast; Valinoti takes credit for bringing them to Arkansas.
If you want the Barstool pie, order the Sidetown. My favorite pizza was the spicy Patsy Searcy – sopressata, calabrian chili oil, peppadews and honey. I’m a char snob when it comes to pizza. Most pies are served undercooked, in my opinion. But Chef Tony pulls his pies at the moment of peak perfection. Even if you think you can’t manage one more bite, order the Lemon Icebox Cheesecake for dessert. I’ll be trying to recreate it at home for the holidays.
Kollective Coffee + Tea
When you need a break from Central Avenue shopping, pop into Kollective Coffee + Tea. The shop offers a staggering assortment of coffee and tea blends, available hot or iced. It’s a comfy space with couches, rotating artwork and a Wednesday open mic poetry night. Bowls, salads, soups and sammies are available in combos to meet a variety of dietary needs. For example, I chose sourdough for my turkey and Gouda sandwich, but it was also available on keto or gluten-free bread.
McClard’s Bar-B-Q
A favorite pit stop for President (and Hot Springs native) Bill Clinton, McClard’s serves Southern, made-from-scratch favorites using recipes the family has handed down since the restaurant’s founding in 1928. Phil McClard starts soaking the day’s Great Northern beans at 2 am, feeds hickory wood into the smoker and welcomes guests like regulars. The Arkansas tamales are a popular and filling favorite, stuffed with a mix of ground meat and smothered in baked beans. Save room for the homemade cobbler. It wasn’t cloyingly sweet like most so you could really taste the blackberries.
The Ohio Club
The Ohio Club, Arkansas’s oldest bar, opened in 1905 and was a popular hangout for the gangsters, baseball players and entertainers who passed through Hot Springs. The front of the club was rebuilt to accommodate the massive carved mahogany bar dominating the first floor.
During Prohibition, a cigar storefront concealed the club; patrons who gained admittance ordered the black bean soup served with a bottle of booze under the beans. Current owners Jeannie and Saddiq Mir are considering resurrecting the soup for the bar’s upcoming 120th anniversary. The burgers are a solid selection on the current menu and live music is featured Thursday – Sunday nights.
Where to Stay in Hot Springs
Your lodging choice in Hot Springs depends on your trip vibe and budget. If you’re visiting on a romantic getaway, check out The Reserve, a luxe renovated mansion. Want a full-service spa, outdoor pool and casino? The Oaklawn Racing Casino Resort has just under 200 rooms, half of which overlook the historic racetrack. Nature enthusiasts can stay in a treehouse (In the Trees) or sleep under the stars (Starlight Haven). If you want to be in the heart of downtown, The Arlington will complete its historic restoration in 2025 and The Waters is a
If you’re heading to Hot Springs on a road trip with your besties, I’d suggest Dame Fortune’s Cottage Court. It’s fun, funky and wildly affordable.
Local Realtor and photographer Andie Roberts lovingly restored the 1950s-era motel. It retains a retro vibe while providing modern amenities like free wifi. Bed configurations include king, queen and 2-bed doubles. All rooms have heat and a/c, Smart TVs, hair dryers and coffee makers. Free self-parking is directly in front of your unit. The motel is pet-friendly for a fee.
Located in the Uptown neighborhood, Dame Fortune’s is a quick walk to Bathhouse Row and other Hot Springs National Park attractions. Nightly room rates in 2024 are under $100 per night,
More Things to Do in Hot Springs
I’ve touched on the fun things I did during my October 2024 trip. Depending on how long you stay and when you visit, there’s lots more to experience. When I return, I’ll definitely:
- Tour Mountain Valley Spring Water. In addition to thermal waters, there are cool mountain springs in town and Mountain Valley’s been distributing the water in refillable glass jugs since 1871. During Prohibition, bootleggers flipped the logo upside down on bottles containing moonshine.
- Go to a show at the Maxwell Blade Theatre of Magic. A former rock musician brings glitz and glam to his magic performances in the historic Malco Theatre.
- Watch the thoroughbreds race at Oaklawn. The historic racetrack season runs from December through April with stakes races featuring future Kentucky Derby horses.
- Catch a live show at The Vapors. Tony Bennett first sang “I Left My Heart in San Francisco” at The Vapors, a nightclub owned by local gangster Owney Madden. When the popularity of nightclubs waned, the building was used as a church. However, it’s been renovated and hosts live music and comedy performances.
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