Chasing Wilderness: A Road Trip Through Utah’s Hot Springs, Canyons & Desert Stars

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One of many expansive, uninterrupted views along Route 12 in Utah. Jagged rocks to the right and open reddish brown valleys, mountains and landscape in the distance as far as the eye can see.
Expansive views everywhere. Photo credit: Bethany Kandel

Utah offers endless possibilities for hiking, climbing and exploring to see Mother Nature’s magnificence. With so much to see and do around the state, it’s hard to choose a route. On our latest road trip, my husband and I drove north from Las Vegas toward Capitol Reef National Park, discovering incredible stops along the way.

SheBuysTravel Tip: I highly recommend visiting both Zion and Bryce National Parks as well. We had already been to both on a previous trip.

The writer received media discounts at various locations.

Zion Canyon Hot Springs

Zion Canyon Hot Springs is filled with numerous pools to dip into each with different temperatures and mineral make-up. See a few of the pools with turquoise water and rocks in the distance under blue skies with fluffy white clouds.
Zion Canyon Hot Springs offers a myriad of geothermal pools and cold plunges. Photo credit: Bethany Kandel

Our first stop, just two hours north of Las Vegas, was the new Zion Canyon Hot Springs. It’s an expansive therapeutic oasis with 32 natural geothermal hot springs, 16 globally-inspired mineral soaking pools, each simulating the mineral features of famous springs around the world. With the red rocks as your backdrop, you can dip into the Sulphur waters of Iceland’s Blue Lagoon, float in the saltiness of the Dead Sea and experience the healing qualities of Rotaro-Tuapo in New Zealand. Water temperatures range from 88-104°F. Then cool off in a cold plunge – choose 45, 50 or 55°F. There are also barrel saunas, a huge family pool and food and drink options. You’ll leave in a total state of relaxation.

SheBuysTravel Tip: CoalaTree, an eco-minded gear and apparel company, has teamed up with Greater Zion for a limited-edition collab. Twenty percent of all proceeds from their new collection of hiking socks, Mirage sunshirt, Puffy Kachula blanket and Quest Duffel will be donated to the Zion Forever Project supporting conservation, trail restoration and educational initiatives.

Dome Hotel

The glass domes at Clear Sky Resorts Bryce Canyon give you a great view of the night sky. Three of the geodesic domes that are hotel rooms. Curtains are closed but at night you can open them to see the sky and stars. There is a brown desert like landscape around them and blue sky above.
Clear Sky Resorts Bryce Canyon, an all-dome hotel. Photo credit: Bethany Kandel

Our first night we did some luxury glamping at Clear Sky Resorts Bryce Canyon, a hotel with individual glass dome rooms. Described as an “aquarium of stars,” your room looks to the sky at night and the desert landscape by day.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Skip the airport stress — Lyft’s On-Time Pickup Promise guarantees your scheduled ride shows up within 10 minutes of your pickup time. If it doesn’t? You’ll get Lyft Cash. You can schedule up to 90 days in advance and even lock in your rate. Use code SBT25 to save 25% off ONE scheduled ride to the airport.

No worries that you’ll be roughing it. You get all the comforts of a luxury hotel room here, including AC/heat, luxury linens on a 5-star mattress, a rainfall shower and privacy curtains.

Have a delicious dinner at the onsite restaurant — there’s not much nearby. The hotel also provides s’more fixings for roasting at one of their firepits. While we roasted, staffer Chad entertained us with a fun storytelling round robin, enjoyed by both kids and adults.


Are you ready to explore off the beaten path? Let us inspire you!

Scenic Route 12

A colorful rainbow lights up the red rocks of Utah's landscape. Red rocks and green trees are in the foreground and a rainbow is in the sky above.
Red rocks and a colorful rainbow on the way to Capitol Reef. Photo credit: Bethany Kandel

Next, we headed up the not-to-be-missed Route 12, one of the top 10 most scenic drives in the USA, stretching 122 miles across Southern Utah from Bryce Canyon to Capitol Reef. It offers epic views of the majestic mountains and endless landscapes showcasing the state’s plateaus, forests and desert canyons.

At one dramatic overlook in the Grand Staircase-Escalante, the first words out of the mouths of everyone who stopped were “Wow!” And wow it is as you stand in awe at what Mother Nature created. Beware: the roads can be very windy and narrow in spots with severe drop-offs on both sides of the road. Drive slowly and, if possible, not at night.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Gas stations are scarce on Route 12, so be sure to gas up when you pass one. Stock up on snacks and water, too. Hydration is key for Utah’s hikes.

What to Do

On the way to our next stop in Boulder, we hiked the Lower Calf Falls trail in Escalante, right off Highway 12. They say it’s an easy 6.2-mile round-trip, but plan on at least three hours because you are walking up and down and through sand, which slows you down. The reward? A picturesque waterfall at the end, perfect for a refreshing dip in the icy waters before the hike back.

SheBuysTravel Tip: There are few stops for a bite near here, so get a breakfast burrito and coffee with a view at Kiva Koffeehouse, tucked into the mountains right before you see signs for the falls. Note: they are only open Wednesday through Sunday and close for the winter season.

Boulder, Utah

A red pasta dish with fresh green and orange vegetables is on the left. Brown bison meat with mashed potatoes and colorful locally-grown vegetables on the plate on the right.
Delicious dinner at Hell’s Backbone Grill. Photo credit: Bethany Kandel

We spent two nights at Boulder Mountain Lodge, a sprawling camp-like property that recently merged with the adjacent James Beard-nominated Hell’s Backbone Grill & Farm. Rooms are spacious and comfortable (ask for one with a porch). Dinner at the restaurant was outstanding, with delicious offerings fresh from their organic farm. We feasted on sizzled shishitos, smoked trout, grilled bison and a salad with mouth-watering local peaches.

There’s a food truck on the property offering breakfast and lunch, a farmer’s market on summer weekends, a bird-watching sanctuary, lawn games and a large hot tub that was most welcome after a long hike.

Torrey, Capitol Reef

Before hitting the road for the last leg of the journey, we did a quick local hike to Singing Canyon off the nearby Burr Trail. It’s a small but beautiful slot canyon. Drive a few miles further up the road for another awe-inspiring view.

There was lots more gorgeous scenery as we drove into Torrey, Utah, for our exploration of Capitol Reef National Park, known for its broad, sweeping vistas and seemingly endless landscape.

What to Do in Capitol Reef

The author in a lavender t-shirt with a bearded tour guide from Water Pocket Adventures stand on the brown desert with two large reddish rocks poking up in the distance in an open landscape.
A private tour with Jason Willard of Water Pocket Adventures. Photo credit: Bethany Kandel

There are dozens of trails to choose from, depending on how much time you have, how far you want to hike and your ability to climb. Your first stop should be at the visitor’s center, where the guides help you map out a personal plan.

Enjoy the Scenery

  • Climb: We chose the Hickman Bridge, a relatively easy 2-mile round-trip scenic hike up to a large natural arch. A great spot for photos and selfies. You can continue along the rim for other amazing views.
  • Drive: Be sure to take the eight-mile scenic drive through the entire park and then venture onto the unpaved section at the end to get the full experience.
  • Visit: See the petroglyphs, ancient engravings in the rock walls. There’s also an 1800s one-room schoolhouse. During harvest season (June through October), you can pick fruit in the historic Fruita orchards and even buy a fresh, local pie (note: they sell out quickly most mornings).

Take a Private Tour

A highlight of our visit was a six-hour private tour of the Bentonite Hills and other remote sights with Jason Willard, owner of Water Pocket Adventures. He navigates with mastery backroads that can only be attempted with a four-wheel drive and knowledge of where you’re going. There are no road signs. It’s a great opportunity to escape the crowds and feel like you have this wonderland to yourselves.

Amazing Views

We drove to Moonscape Overlook – popularized by Instagram — where you are certain you’re looking at the moon’s surface. Other must-see spots include Factory Butte and the Temples of the Sun and Moon, two red rocks popping up in the middle of nowhere. Jason also showed us a secret spot to see fossilized dinosaur bones.

Educational: It was part history, part geology lesson, as he explained how the layers of mountains and colorful landscapes were created over millions of years. He was also super helpful, suggesting local restaurants and spots for sunset views.

His tip: start your tour at sunrise for dramatic photos.

Where to Stay in Torrey, Near Capitol Reef

  • Capitol Reef Resort, minutes from the park entrance, offers rooms with gorgeous red rock views, plus accommodations in cabins, teepees and Conestoga wagons. Enjoy an outdoor pool, hot tub and a llama farm with animals available for trail rides.
  • Broken Spur also has hotel rooms, teepees and wagons, plus an indoor pool and popular restaurant.
  • Cougar Ridge Resort is a luxury ranch property with private villas and a cozy lodge. They have an outdoor pool, sauna, e-bikes, a fitness center, tennis, pickleball and basketball courts.

Where to Eat and Drink

Torrey has the most restaurants of any town that we passed since leaving Las Vegas. Here are a few to try:

  • Broken Spur Steakhouse: Find hearty Western favorites at this steakhouse. Saturday night was rib night and Sunday the special was brisket. Try the steaks and other comfort food.
  • Rim Rock Patio: Local bands and homemade pizza make for a lively evening in an outdoor beer garden.
  • Hunt and Gather: Try some game here, including duck and elk. Note: they are closed for the season until March 2026.

Getting There

Colorful map of Utah's Route 12 is one of the most scenic drives in the US. It goes from Bryce Canyon North to Torrey, home of Capitol Reef National Park and passes through Escalante and Boulder on the way.
Map of Route 12. Photo credit: Bethany Kandel
  • From Las Vegas the drive to Capitol Reef is about six and a half hours. But we didn’t drive directly.
  • Las Vegas to Zion Hot Springs is two hours.
  • Clear Sky outside Bryce was another two hours from the springs.
  • Next stop was Boulder, about 1 ½ hours from Clear Sky.
  • And then about an hour more to Torrey.

SheBuysTravel Tip: To shorten the drive back to the Las Vegas airport from Torrey, we spent our last night in Mesquite, NV (less than a four-hour drive from Torrey). It was 105 degrees when we arrived at the Hampton Inn & Suites by Hilton Mesquite and immediately jumped in the huge pool to cool off. It was a nice way to end the trip. The next morning, it was only an hour and a half drive to the Las Vegas Airport. The hotel also offers complimentary breakfast, including the famed Hampton Inn waffles.

Las Vegas Tips

We spent a few days in Las Vegas before hitting the road. See all the classic sights, including the Bellagio’s conservatory and botanic garden and their nightly music and fountain show, the Flamingo wildlife habitat and the Venetian’s gondolas.

What Not to Miss

The author, wearing glasses and a grey top, is standing behind the famous orange couch from the opening scene of every "Friends" episode at a new must-see Las Vegas attraction. Behind her is the famous fountain and a large building with many windows. To her right is a Tiffany-like standing lamp.
The “Friends” Experience has opened in Las Vegas. Photo credit: Bethany Kandel

Experiences:

  • New on the scene is the Friends Experience at the MGM Grand. Have a seat on the legendary orange couch from the opening credits, grab a cup of joe in Central Perk coffee shop and enter Monica’s apartment through the famed purple door. It’s one giant Instagrammable shot after another.
  • At the Princess Diana and the Royals exhibit in The Shops at Crystals, you’ll get to see her “revenge” dress, learn all about her life pre-royalty and see more than 700 authentic artifacts. I definitely recommend renting the audio guide to get an in-depth description of all that’s on display and the royal backstory.

Food:

If you’re hungry, the Linq Promenade mall next to the Flamingo Hotel has dozens of bars, stores and restaurants. My fav was Jabburritos for a sushi burrito, and Gordon Ramsay’s Fish and Chips. You’ll also find the entrance to the High Roller Observation Wheel, with views 550-feet above the Las Vegas Strip.

Entertainment:

  • Plan a trip around a concert at the Sphere. I snagged last-minute tickets to the Backstreet Boys and it was awesome.
  • Coming to the strip: a new guitar-shaped Hard Rock Hotel & Casino in 2027.

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Bethany Kandel is a New York City-based journalist and author. In addition to Shebuystravel.com, she has written for hundreds of national and local publications and websites including The New York Times, Travel & Leisure, Reader’s Digest, Woman’s Day, Good Housekeeping, msnbc.com and New York Family. She loves to travel and find the offbeat in her own city and around the country and world. She is also the author of the parenting resource book, The Expert Parent (Pocket Books) and the educational children’s book, Trevor’s Story: Growing Up Biracial (Lerner Publications). She is the founder of the website, www.breastcancerfreebies.com.
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