Adventuring in Oregon’s Coastal Forests & Wild, Scenic Rivers

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Large rocks and trees by ocean coast
Thunder Rock on the Southern Oregon Coast showcases where the forest meets the ocean. Photo credit: Lisa Chism

With forested trails and scenic ocean views, I found this three-day road trip to the Oregon Coast invigorating. This was my first time experiencing the notorious Pacific Coast Scenic Byway, which stretches more than 363 miles along Oregon’s west coast.

Our wellness focused girl’s trip included some traditional sightseeing and some “off-the-beaten-path” experiences to unwind. Our group of 5 had time for reflection, rejuvenation and gratitude as we explored the central and southern coastlines and sampled local cuisine.

This trip was hosted.

Central Coast

Crashing waves on rugged coastline
Devil’s Churn, part of the Cape Perpetua Scenic Area, where waves careen and crash into the volcanic rock coastline. Photo credit: Lisa Chism

Lighthouses, coastal towns and roads that hug the ocean define the Central Coast. Fueled by abundant rainfall, this lush terrain boasts the vibrant greens of the evergreens, velvet moss and  blankets of ferns that cover the forest floors. Highway 101 weaves between coastal views and inland to forested areas and quaint fishing villages.

Stops (north to south)

The Central Coast is easily accessed about two hours west of Portland. We enjoyed several short stops below during our first day on the road, for about three hours of driving total.

  • Lincoln City:
    • Grab an oceanside bite: After a few hours on the road from Portland we were hungry and dined at Pelican Brewing on Siletz Bay with its expansive deck views of driftwood-covered beaches. They have an expansive lunch menu with lots of seafood and traditional favorites.
    • Fun to do: Breezy beaches draw kite flyers. All beach access is public here.
  • Depoe Bay: Fishing village and whale watching site. We unfortunately didn’t have time to stop here. But it’s worth spending some time if you have more time in your schedule, especially during Spring when the whales make their pilgrimage each year.
  • Newport and Yaquina Bay: Home to the Oregon Coast Aquarium, a good stopping point for an indoor activity, especially if it’s raining.
  • Yachats and Cape Perpetua Scenic Area: A spectacular coastal stop with scenic views and must see tidal blowholes: Devil’s Churn and Thor’s Well. I was thrilled that we spent a bit more time at this scenic viewpoint and recommend you do, too.

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The Magic of Cape Perpetua

Birdseye view of ocean beach with fog and forests
View from the top of Cape Perpetua overlooks scenic byway 101 below. Photo credit: Travel Oregon

Beyond Lincoln City, and near Yachats (pronounced YAH-hots), waves boom and swirl against the base of 800-foot Cape Perpetua Scenic Area, and trails lead through old-growth forest above. We adventured at high tide down the trail to witness spectacular waves crashing against the rugged volcanic coastline.

  • What’s Magical:
    • Cape Perpetua, the highest point on the Oregon Coast, with sweeping views of the beach and coastline
    • Devil’s Churn and Spouting Horn, two dramatic blowholes
    • Thor’s Well, where the raging Pacific seems to drain into a bottomless pit at high tide.
  • Best time to go: High tide occurs twice each day at varying times and provides the best viewing and largest waves. Check the NOAA website for the best timing when you visit.
  • Best for: Anyone can enjoy the spectacular view from the parking lot. The trail to Devil’s Churn is paved but can get slippery at high tide or during wet weather.
  • Roundtrip time: Plan to spend at least 30 minutes if taking the trail to Devil’s Churn.
  • What to take or wear:
    • Footwear with a tread: trails are often wet and slippery
    • Packable rain jacket: A small foldable poncho or rain jacket is handy
    • Hat or hair accessories:  It is very windy here, so plan for that especially if you have longer hair!

SheBuysTravel Tip: Remember to follow beach safety rules. Never turn your back on the ocean, stay off logs in the water and avoid standing on exposed rocks, jetties and headlands after a storm. That perfect picture isn’t worth it if you get hurt.

Where We Stayed

Flowers in a vase with a cup of coffee at the Overleaf Loddge lobby with fireplace and windows overlooking beach.
The cozy lobby of the Overleaf Lodge in Yachats overlooks the rugged coastline. Photo credit: Lisa Chism

Having been rained on at Cape Perpetua, we warmed up and renewed our spirits at the Overleaf Lodge and Spa.

  • What’s Magical:
    • Every guest room overlooks the sea and sunsets are framed in your picture-perfect window.
    • You can walk a meandering trail to beautiful oceanfront vistas, tidal pools, sandy beaches and hidden covers.
    • The onsite spa offers massages for a fee, a sauna and a complimentary hot soaking tub that overlooks the ocean.
  • Accommodations:
    • 54 Rooms plus cottages…each with a unique combination of amenities. Contact the hotel directly to reserve rooms with a fireplace, hot tub, balcony or full kitchen. Our group each enjoyed our own hotel room.
    • No smoking and no pets. (If you need a place for your four-legged friend, try the Fireside Motel, Overleaf’s nearby sister property).
  • The Overleaf Spa:
    • Free guest access to the ocean-view soaking tub, steam room and sauna.
    • Additional services (massage, facials, hydrotherapy) for a fee.
  • Rates: Start at $178, increasing during warm weather months from June to September. Spa facilities, complimentary WiFi, an exercise room and breakfast are included with your room.

Southern Coast

White lighthouse overlooking ocean sitting atop a rugged coastline of trees and rocks
Historic Heceta Head Lighthouse is reported to be haunted. Photo credit: Travel Oregon

The rugged southern coast of Oregon is a bit more desolate with a sprinkling of must-stops along the way.

Stops (north to south)

  • Heceta Head Lighthouse: Visitors can tour the tower and stay in the lightkeeper’s home, now a B&B, and supposedly haunted. We didn’t stay here but viewed from afar.
  • Sea Lion Caves: Privately owned natural cavern home to sea lions. Open year round, but confirm hours via the website. Free for kids under 4 and starting at $12 for others. Accessibility may be a challenge with stairs and moderate downhill grade.
  • Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area: Features the largest coastal sand dunes in North America.
  • Coos Bay and Shore Acres State Park: Great spot for large crashing waves and forest hikes. This is where we practiced the art of Forest Bathing.

What is Forest Bathing Therapy?

three women hugging large trees in the rain
Forest bathing, also known as Shinrin-yoku, is the practice of immersing oneself in nature to improve physical and mental health. Photo credit: Lisa Chism

When I first heard of forest bathing, I pictured walking in a robe to a white claw tub and sitting in the forest while I soaked. I learned that this therapeutic experience involves spending time in natural environments and using all five senses to connect with nature so that one slows down, relaxes and is mindful of the present moment.

Coos Bay, North Bend and Charleston, on the Southern Oregon coast, offer a variety of natural landscapes for forest bathing. A wonderful couple from Mossy Lotus yoga guided our experience at Shore Acres State Park.

Perched on rugged cliffs high above the ocean, this scenic area excites with year-round blooms. Walking in the rainy fern forest, collecting raindrops, and immersing ourselves in the tall trees’ quiet felt refreshing.

What to bring for forest bathing and hiking

rocky bluffs overlooking ocean with wildflowers in foreground
Shore Acres State Park at Coos Bay. Photo credit: Travel Oregon

Layers, layers, layers…so you can add or subtract for the weather which can vary dramatically depending on where you are during your hikes. The Southern Oregon coast is sometimes called “the banana coast” and has a Mediterranean-like climate with warmer temperatures throughout the year but if you go inland that can wildly swing to snow, especially toward Crater Lake.

  • Backpack to hold all your layers.
  • Water and water bottle. At least one liter.
  • Hiking boots with ankle support and good tread
  • A hat for all months of the year.

SheBuysTravel Tip: Be prepared for wind, heat, cold and rain. Wool stays dry (and now comes in soft, non-scratchy versions), a waterproof outer layer (jacket and pants). Cotton is the least favorite fiber for outdoor use; it is cold when wet and warm when hot.

Gold Beach

bedroom with blue wall, large white bed and artwork on wall
Guest cottage at Endicott Gardens Bed and Breakfast, Gold Beach, OR. Photo credit: Lisa Chism

Endicott Gardens

After forest bathing, we dried off and warmed up at  Endicott Gardens at Gold Beach.  This gated property is on the outskirts of Gold Beach, so quiet and secure for travelers, especially if you’re traveling solo.

  • What’s Magical:
    • Luxury B&B with just 6 guest quarters: I stayed in the spacious Syrene Suite with a large soaking tub and shower. The owners brought me custom bath salts made onsite!
    • Farm-to-table food for every dietary need: Breakfast was included and featured an assortment of yogurt, a vegetarian quinoa and sweet potato quiche and zucchini bacon with coffee and fresh-pressed apple juice. On arrival, we enjoyed fresh lemonade, hot tea, strawberries and scratch made scones with lemon curd.
    • The onsite spa and apothecary offers classes and workshops: we participated in a botanical blending class to make our own lip ointment!
    • Tea Room: Taste 30 teas and attend periodically scheduled afternoon teas
  • Accommodations:
    • 5 Rooms plus Guest House
    • No smoking, no pets and guests must be 21 or older.
    • Onsite Parking
    • On arrival, call to get in…the property is gated and requires an access key for entry (you’ll be provided one once you check in).
  • K Cherie Spa:
    • Fee-for-service spa and wellness programs including massage, facials, aromatherapy, body treatments, herb walks, classes and consultations.
  • Rates: Start at $255/night

Day tripping from Gold Beach – South

Forest overlooking rocky natural bridge at edge of ocean
Natural Bridges, within the Samuel H. Boardman Scenic Corridor, Brookings, OR. Photo credit: Lisa Chism

After departing our bed and breakfast, we embarked to the Southern Oregon Coast. The coastal scenery dazzles on its final stretch before reaching the California border. As the byway skims along cliffs and rocky shores, there are ample overlooks and hiking trails right off highway 101.

  • Cape Sebastian State Park: A two-minute drive to the top to soak up the 150 mile vista
  • Myers Creek Beach: Tidepooling to see marine life at low tide. Our action packed schedule didn’t allow for this activity, but I can’t wait to return to participate on my next visit!
  • Samuel H. Boardman Scenic Corridor: 12 miles with 14 pull-offs including Natural Bridges overlook. We spent some time at this viewpoint. Some of our group chose to stay at the top at Natural Bridges. A few of us broke off to take a 1-mile hike to Secret Beach with views of Thunder Rock out in the ocean off the coast. The trail here was steep and slippery from recent heavy rain. The reward was breathtaking views where the forest meets the ocean.

Wild and Scenic Rivers

River of turquoise water with rocky shores and evergreen trees
Oregon Hole Gorge is a popular whitewater area near the Oregon/California border. Photo credit: Lisa Chism

The Rogue River is one of eight original, official Wild and Scenic Rivers as named by U.S. legislation to protect their free-flowing condition, water quality, and outstanding natural, cultural, and recreational values for the enjoyment of present and future generations. Famed for its rafting and fishing, the Rogue meets the Pacific at Gold Beach and travels inland to Grants Pass.

SheBuysTravel Tip: If you continue following 101 south into Northern California, you can take a unique day trip into the redwoods and hike among the giant 300-year old trees. The winding highway 199 leads you back north to Grants Pass, Oregon, known for tamer waters of the Rogue River, a popular destination for summertime river floating.

large log cabin structure with many wood adirondack chairs on a green lawn
The historic Weasku Inn, Grants Pass, Oregon. Photo credit: Lisa Chi

Weasku Inn

A unique option for a single night stay in Grants Pass is the Weasku Inn. This Oregon legend was built in 1924 along the banks of the scenic Rogue River.

  • What’s Magical:
    • Retreat to Hollywood legends like Clark Gable, Carol Lombard and Walt Disney
    • Popular fishing lodge
    • Free breakfast, daily afternoon hors d’oeuvres with wine tastings and s’mores by the firepit, and great wifi.
    • Hotel will arrange day trips to Crater Lake National Park and the Southern Oregon wine region
  • Accommodations:
    • 3 Rooms in the lodge, 5 River Cabins and 1 River House (3/2)
    • No pets (If you have pets, the hotel recommends Riverside Inn or Best Western Inn at the Rogue)
    • Free Onsite Parking
  • Rates: Start at $165/night and vary seasonally. Check out their packages.

Getting there

The Portland International Airport is two hours from the Northern or Central Oregon Coast. If traveling to the Southern Oregon Coast or starting from there, the Rogue Valley International Medford Airport is two hours inland.

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Lisa Chism is a culinary and travel journalist with experience covering hotels, restaurants and destinations worldwide. She has previously served as head of PR for companies in health care, fitness, telecom and government. Her experience as a travel writer encompasses everything from solo outdoor adventure travel to family-friendly trips.
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