The trail into the forest was muddy from recent rains. But that didn’t bother the three boisterous dogs leading a truffle hunt in Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula.
While we stepped carefully down a steep hill, the dogs bounded ahead, sniffing the damp ground. Soon, a retriever named Lila began frantically pawing the dirt. Armin, our experienced guide, took over the digging, uncovering a small clump the size of a misshapen golf ball—our first black truffle.
My recent truffle hunt at Karlic Tartufi in Istria in northwestern Croatia was a success–and not just because we found truffles in the wild.
If, like me, a truffle hunt is on your bucket list, you can expect the experience to be::
- An entertaining history lesson in truffles or tartufi, as they are known in Croatia·
- An exhilarating hike in a pristine forest accompanied by well-trained, fun-loving dogs.
- A culinary adventure involving tasting truffles in a variety of foods, from eggs to liqueur.
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Istria Is Known for Truffles
I love the intense, earthy flavor of truffles. But until my visit to Croatia in May, I knew little about truffles–the subterranean kind, not to be confused with chocolate truffles. Plus, I had never been on a truffle hunt.
When I learned the Motovun Forest in the Istria Peninsula was home to some of the world’s finest truffles, I couldn’t resist adding a truffle hunt to my three-week tour of the Central European country.
The heart-shaped peninsula is better known for Roman ruins, seaside towns, and beaches along the turquoise Adriatic Sea. But I found the mountainous interior just as charming, with medieval villages perched on hilltops, rich farmland, and dense forests, as well as a bounty of excellent wine, olive oil, and truffles.
Read More: Things to Do in Dubrovnik, Croatia.
Truffles: ‘Diamonds in the Kitchen’
So, why hunt truffles? Often compared to mushrooms, truffles are a rare type of edible fungi that flourish symbiotically amid the roots of oak and other trees. They grow in the wild in a handful of places around the world, including parts of Croatia, France, and Italy in Europe and the Pacific Northwest in the U.S. Specially trained dogs use their keen sense of smell to find the well-hidden culinary treats,
Chefs and foodies treasure the distinctive flavor and earthy aroma of truffles, which are sometimes called “diamonds of the kitchen.” I especially love truffles shaved atop pasta dishes. But they also are stirred into scrambled eggs and added to cheeses and meats. Plus, they are rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants and are even considered by some to be an aphrodisiac.
Finding a Truffle Hunt
Truffle tours typically last up to four hours and include an hour-long walk in the forest and a truffle lunch. About a dozen firms in Istria offer truffle hunts. I arranged my solo tour with Istriana Travel, a boutique tour company owned by a woman.
Zdenka Majcan, 42, grew up in Istria and started her business in 2008 to introduce visitors to the magical beauty of Istria—and truffles. Blond and energetic, Majcan suggested we meet in the hilltop village of Vrh and walk to Karlic Tartufi, one of the area’s oldest truffle estates.
I quickly understood why. Rolling green hills covered with grape vines, red poppy fields, and rustic stone houses spread majestically in all directions from tiny Vrh, which has a population of 120 people.
As we hiked down a winding road beneath a vast blue sky, I was struck by how much the pastoral beauty of the hilltop towns reminded me of Italy. For good reason. Istria was part of the Roman Empire and, later, the country of Italy until after World War 2.
Karlic Truffle Estate
Majcan hugged her long-time friend, Ivana Karlic Ban, and then introduced us when we reached the Karlic farm. A warm and friendly redhead, Karlic Ban learned the family business as a youngster under her grandfather’s watchful eye.
The rustic farmhouse where the Karlic truffle business began in 1966 with a single dog is now an impressive complex of modern stone-and-glass buildings perched on a steep hillside. Expansive patios bordered by brightly colored flowers invite visitors to take in breathtaking views of forested hills. From a large kennel tucked beneath shade trees, I heard the friendly yelps of dogs.
As other visitors gathered, Karlic Ban poured us shot glasses of the family’s own Biska, mistletoe brandy infused with white truffles.
From a Hobby to a Business
We sipped the aromatic, herbal liqueur while Karlic Ban, 27, recounted the family’s passion for truffles. Before her grandfather, Ivan Raspolic started the business, truffles were considered “ugly potatoes” and thrown away or fed to livestock. Growing demand from nearby Italians, who had been gathering truffles for centuries, led farmers to expand their hobbies into businesses.
Today, Karlic Ban is part of the third generation overseeing what is now one of Istria’s largest truffle businesses—and 11 truffle dogs. Hundreds of truffle hunters and even more dogs forage for truffles in the Motovun forest.
In addition to tours, Karlic Tartufi creates truffle products such as sauces, patès, olive oil, and cheeses that are shipped to restaurants in Istria and around the world. Chocolate sauce and gin flavored with truffles are among the family’s newest offerings.
“The flavor of almost anything can be enhanced with truffles—except wine,” joked Karlic Ban.
‘Must Love Dogs’
The heart of the business is still truffle hunts and tastings. Karlic Ban loves introducing guests to truffles and her dogs. “You must love dogs,” Karlic Ban told us, pointing to the canines pictured on her T-shirt.
Training a truffle dog takes about a year and begins early. Karlic Ban uses truffles as treats and toys until the dogs learn their smell and taste. Then, young dogs are paired with experienced dogs until they can find truffles on their own.
Karlic Ban said the best truffle hunters are mixed-breed females.
The Truffle Hunt
I joined three dogs and guided Armin in Karlic’s foam-green truffle van for the short drive to a nearby forest. The dogs ran ahead as Armin guided me and three other people down a steep trail. The air was pungent with the smell of decaying leaves and damp soil.
As we struggled to stay on our feet on the muddy trail, Armin explained that truffles thrive in moist environments like those in Istria. White truffles are harder to find, more delicate, and tastier, so they are also more expensive. They can sell for as much as five times the price of black truffles. The price depends on size, type, and availability, but according to the website Tartufo.com, white truffles can sell for as much as $1,300 an ounce.
Dogs Lead With Their Nose
Truffles aren’t guaranteed on a hunt, but our resourceful dogs led us to several small black, knobby orbs. Once a dog found a truffle, Armin rewarded her and carefully dug out the truffle with a special trowel. It’s essential to stay close to the dogs, he said, because they like truffles, too. Pigs are also good truffle hunters, but Armin said dogs are easier to control and train.
Watching the dogs at work was exhilarating and entertaining. I also reveled in the tranquil beauty and earthy smells of the forest.
When we climbed back up the hillside, we had several good-sized truffles to show for our efforts. And a greater appreciation for the role dogs play in finding culinary treasures.
A Feast of Truffles
A three-course lunch was already underway at Karlic’s lovely dining room overlooking the Istrian hills. Majcan rejoined me for a glass of Croatian wine and a sumptuous charcuterie board of cheeses, sausages, honey, olive oil, and traditional vinegar—all enriched with truffles.
Chef Lidia encouraged us to add more truffles to the main course of scrambled eggs. As I shaved another truffle onto my eggs, I worried the taste might be too strong. But my eggs were silky and delicious.
Our truffle feast ended with fluffy donut hole-shaped pastries filled with Karlic’s white and dark chocolate sauce called Truffella. Who knew pairing truffles and chocolate could taste so heavenly?
Truffles Through History
I also visited Karlic’s fascinating Truffle Museum, which recounts the family’s story and traces the culinary diamond’s history back to antiquity. Photos, truffle samples, and mementos bring the history of truffles to life. An interactive display allows you to smell the scent of different types of truffles.
Ancient Greeks and Romans were among the first to treasure truffles, which were considered therapeutic and a potent aphrodisiac. Napoleon was said to have eaten truffles to enhance his performance, but it wasn’t clear whether that meant in battle or the boudoir.
Karlic’s adorable gift shop sells everything related to truffles, from food items to liqueur and kitchenware to paintings of truffles. I purchased two jars of truffles and chocolate sauce. I would have bought more, but I had several destinations ahead of me.
Then the clerk told me about Karlic’s online truffle store. Happy truffle days ahead.
When to Go
The highly prized Alba white truffles can only be hunted from September to January. Black truffles can be uncovered year-round, but the best time to hunt black truffles is May through December.
What to Wear on a Truffle Hunt
Long pants and long-sleeved shirts are recommended to avoid bugs and branches in the woods. Trails can be slippery, so wear sneakers or hiking boots. Pack clothing for hiking, including rain gear.
Truffle Tour Costs
Prices for truffle tours vary. Karlic charges about $135 per person for group truffle hunts and tastings, while private tours cost more. Karlic welcomes guests ages one to 90 on truffle hunts, but walking on rough trails can be strenuous. You can enjoy a truffle lunch without going on a hunt.
Other Tours in Istria
Bike excursions, hill town tours, cooking classes, and massages (with truffle products) are other popular ways to experience Istria. Istriana Travel offers individual and group tours with wine and brandy-tasting experiences, with or without truffle hunts. Majcan can arrange transportation. Prices vary by tour type and number of participants. Other tour companies offer Istria tours, including GetYourGuide.
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