It’s not often a river boat captain serenades his passengers. But on our recent Rhine River cruise, it was a poignant moment when First Captain Eddy Poppema shared a personal story and then sang Frank Sinatra’s “My Way.”
Poppema said he was born on a boat and that his dad, a former boat captain, died when he went overboard and was never found. He doesn’t typically share this, he said. Knowing this was endearing for those of us fortunate to be on the seven-night AmaWaterways Rhine Castles & Swiss Alps wine cruise.
Unique, intimate experiences like this are what I like about river boat cruises.
The author was hosted.
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Our AmaWaterways Rhine Castles & Swiss Alps Wine Cruise
Longtime ocean cruisers, my adult daughter Christina and I began cruising on European rivers a few years ago. We enjoy the smaller boats, fewer passengers (about 150) and getting to know our crew and fellow passengers on themed river cruises.
The AmaWaterways Rhine Castles & Swiss Alps wine cruise is among the 60-plus Celebration of Wine River Cruises and other themed itineraries offered by AmaWaterways, founded in 2002.
This was our first wine cruise and we enjoyed learning about the wine regions on the Rhine River between Amsterdam and Basel. Along the way, we visited river towns in Germany, France and Switzerland.
SheBuysTravel Tip: When you book your airfare through AmaWaterways, the company provides transfers from and to the airport.
Are you ready to explore off the beaten path? Let us inspire you!
Wine Tastings
Our first wine tasting took place as we sailed from Amsterdam to Cologne, Germany, our first port stop. It was a casual event. Passengers sat on couches and chairs in the main lounge as John Aver, a retired California winemaker, talked about France and Germany’s wine regions and crew members poured tastings. Aver displayed a map of the wine regions on a large screen.
As we swirled and sniffed our wines, Christina and I chatted with fellow passengers. Most were Americans and included families with teens celebrating graduations and seniors marking milestone anniversaries and birthdays. Aver’s wife, Carolyn, and former wine club members (about 65) were also onboard.
SheBuysTravel Tip: AmaWaterways is family-friendly, allowing children ages 4 and older on its cruises. However, there aren’t any youth programs or children’s amenities. But some ships (not AmaSerena) have adjoining rooms for larger groups.
AmaSerena’s Elegant Staterooms
With just 81 staterooms, AmaSerena is an intimate ship yet has comfortable staterooms and public spaces.
Our 235-square-foot twin balcony stateroom had a sitting area and ample storage for our electronics, clothes and toiletries. Bath amenities include shampoo, conditioner, body wash and other items.
While not all staterooms have twin balconies – an outside balcony and a French balcony – I like the twin balcony design. It’s a cozy place to enjoy morning coffee and evening wine.
SheBuysTravel Tip: Pack light. There’s not much room for luggage on a river cruise. I usually bring one carry-on and a backpack.
Relax in Public Spaces
The ship’s main lounge has floor to ceiling windows and is the hub for port talks, wine tastings, entertainment and the daily 6 p.m. Sip & Sail cocktail hour, which features a specialty daily drink. Dinner typically follows at 7 p.m. in the main dining room or in the Chef’s Table restaurant (reservations required, no extra cost).
Complimentary regional wine, beer and soft drinks are served with lunch and dinner and during cocktail hour.
Ship Amenities
The ship also has a spa, fitness center, library and a heated swimming pool with a swim-up bar on the sundeck (where yoga and wellness classes take place). I enjoyed the serenity of the morning yoga classes. The gentle swishing of the river was the only sound I heard as we sailed past open spaces, half-timbered homes and people fishing.
SheBuysTravelTip: If you plan to have a spa treatment, make your reservation as soon as you board the ship. The spa facility is small and bookings fill up quickly.
Get to Know Your Cruise Manager
Generally, no one knows the excursions and regions better than a cruise manager.
This was true of Rachel Couto, who’s been with AmaWaterways for 15 years. Couto, who dressed in different outfits daily that represented the countries we visited, gave entertaining port talks, tips and advice.
Couto said she especially enjoys customizing itineraries for guests and connecting them to a region. For example, in Amsterdam, she arranged a windmill tour for a mom and daughter on the cruise.
And for first-time cruisers wary of venturing out on their own, she says: “It’s safe. We’re close by. This is a nest.”
Free Excursions & Local Guides
AmaWaterways offers several complimentary daily excursions. Our cruise had a nice mix of gentle and active excursions that included biking and walking tours.
I like that on AmaWaterways cruises you can choose an excursion and then swap it out if you change your mind. And on each of our excursions, we had local guides from that region. For most of our excursions, we could walk from the ship to town. But sometimes it was necessary to take a bus.
History and Party Time in Cologne, Germany
In the Old Town in Cologne (the birthplace of Eau de Cologne in 1709), our local guide, Marella, led us to several historic sites, including Cologne Cathedral.
“It’s the tallest Gothic church with twin towers in the world,” she said, urging us to visit the downstairs crypt with Roman ruins (which we did).
Cologne is also known for its week-long Carnival each February when revelers dress in red and white and parade around town.
Our tour ended at a tavern from 1904, Brauhaus FRÜH am Dom, for a glass of Kölsch beer, a smooth pale ale and a hearty prost!
Castle Day on the Rhine Gorge
With much anticipation, we sailed through the Rhine Gorge, a UNESCO World Heritage site with 30-plus castles, terraced vineyards and over 100 islands. From the ship’s decks, we admired the storybook villages and castles.
While we sipped Rüdesheimer coffee (Asbach Uralt Brandy, coffee and whipped cream) on a front deck, Couto provided an entertaining and informative narration as she pointed out landmarks and shared local history and lore.
When we sailed past the Burg Katz (cat) and Burg Maus (mouse) castles, she explained the names were based on the rivalry between the castle owners in the 14th century.
Legends and Shipwrecks
This section of the Upper Middle Rhine Valley was also known for shipwrecks and sailors blamed it on Lorelei, a young maiden whose bewitching beauty caused them to crash their boats into jagged rocks.
“Look closely on the left to see a statue of Lorelei,” said Couto. Later, we burst out laughing when a Viking cruise ship sailed by and Couto announced in hushed tones, “The Vikings are coming, the Vikings are coming.”
Wine Tasting in Rüdesheim am Rhein
Later in the day, we arrived in the wine-making town of Rüdesheim am Rhein, known for its Riesling. We tasted three Rieslings in the cave-like wine cellar, from 1480, bathed in red lighting at the Adolf Storzel winery.
Storzel explained that German Rieslings are less sweet than California Rieslings due to the cooler climate and higher acidity. California’s sunny weather produces sweeter grapes and less acidity.
After wine tasting, we rode on a two-person gondola ride, soaring over adjacent vineyards. We also visited the unique Siegfried’s Mechanical Musical Instrument Museum, housing about 400 historical self-playing instruments of varying sizes from phonographs to orchestrions, and pianolas.
Heidelberg’s Treasures
This charming university town is home to the Heidelberg Castle ruins. Open for tours, it’s been partially rebuilt since its destruction by lightning, wars and fires in the 17th and 18th centuries. From the castle are views of Heidelberg town, where narrow, cobbled streets are packed with shops and cafes.
We bought creamy chocolate from Heidelberger Studentenkup, and shared a beer flight at Vetter Brewery. Later, we later learned it had rained on the bike riders, and they had to cut their tour short.
Worth the Drive: Lucerne
One day, we debated whether a five-hour round-trip bus ride to Lucerne would be worth it – and it was. As we drove by grazing cows on our way to Lucerne, our tour guide Manfred explained we were traveling through three countries – Germany, Switzerland and France.
Lucerne is a picturesque city with a lake framed by the alps and bridges that span the River Reuss. We walked through the historic wooden Chapel Bridge by the Chapel Tower (once used as a prison and watch tower), and to one of Switzerland’s most famous landmarks: a Lion Monument, a rock relief that commemorates Swiss guards who died in the French Revolution.
Traditional Swiss Meal
For lunch, Christina and I joined two cruise passengers for a traditional Swiss meal at the Zunfthhausrestaurant Pfisternon, hugging the banks of the River Reuss.
We shared a boozy cheese fondue and vol-au-vent, a round puff pastry stuffed with tiny meatballs and vegetables. As we lingered over a tasty house white wine, we agreed that the day trip to Lucerne was definitely worth the drive, and now we could nap on the way back to the ship.
A Stroll through Strasbourg
Strasbourg means fortified town, said our guide Adrian. Our first stop was the Gothic Cathedral Notre Dame Strasbourg, constructed of pink sandstone. Hundreds of sculptures adorn the facade while inside there’s a Renaissance astronomical clock from 1842 with a procession of animated figures. Light streams from the 13th and 14th-century stained glass windows, including a Rose Window, unique to Strasbourg Cathedral.
A local French woman suggested a stroll through La Petite France, Strasbourg’s Old Town, where canals and bridges with hanging brightly colored flower beds straddle the Ill River, a tributary of the Rhine. It was a good tip.
We nibbled our way through this French quarter, buying warm bretzels (pretzels are spelled with a “b”), spicy mustard and sampling cheeses before buying a chunk of Franche-Comté cheese at Le Goût du Terroir.
At Pâtisserie Buhler – La Maison du Kougelhopf, in the heart of Strasbourg, we shared plates of Kougelhopf (a dry, sweet bread), quiche and pastries, and bought gingerbread at a shop near the cathedral in time to meet our guide.
Dining on the Rhine
We ate most of our meals family style in the main dining room. The dining room’s menu changed daily and reflected the regions we visited. Among the diverse menu items were a grilled pollock fillet, prime beef ragout and a pan fried salmon filet with caviar sauce. Each day there were vegetarian options, such as Semmelknoedel bread dumpling and forest mushroom ragout and other selections.
In the lounge, there’s a bistro with breakfast items, fruit cups, sandwiches, sweets and other selections.
SheBuysTravel Tip : If you’re not an early riser, the Bistro is a good option for breakfast before morning excursions.
Specialty Dining
One evening we dressed up for the Chef’s Table, an elegant wine-paired meal at the boat’s stern. At a separate wine-paired dinner in the main dining room, Aver sourced wines for four courses.
Throughout the cruise there were snack surprises. These included a brunch of sausage, pretzels and beer and an ice cream sundae buffet.
Farewell for Now
Too soon, we arrived at our final destination – Basel, where we disembarked. For some, this marked the end of the cruise. Others, like Christina and me, moved on to other destinations.
Tip for Excursions: Be Flexible
Schedules can change and it’s important to be flexible. We had planned for a 21-mile bike tour in Ludwigshafen, Germany. But Couto discouraged it.
“That will be fast, fast, fast because the ship leaves at 5:30 (pm),” she said. She had explained during a port talk that river boats have timed sailings through locks, devices for lowering and raising boats. If they miss their scheduled time, it could delay the itinerary by hours.
While I was a bit disappointed, I trusted her judgment and we pivoted to the nearby Heidelberg excursion.
Pre- and Post-extensions
For an additional cost, you can add on a couple of days on land before and/or after the seven-night cruise. For this particular cruise, the pre-extension was in Amsterdam. The post extension was in Lake Como, Italy.
What to Wear on a River Cruise?
River cruises are fairly casual. There are no formal nights. However, it’s nice to dress up a bit for the Chef’s Table restaurant. For women, a fun party dress or simple black dress; for men, slacks and button down shirt.
For excursions, good walking shoes are important for navigating cobblestone streets and stairs. Depending on the weather, wear shorts or summer dresses.
Other Items to Bring
- Sweater and/or jacket
- Lightweight raincoat
- Umbrella (although AmaWaterways does provide standard size umbrellas on rainy days)
- Adapters for chargers and appliances
- Powerbank for your phone
Are Gratuities Included on AmaWaterways Cruises?
- Gratuities are not automatically included in the cost of an AmaWaterways cruise, but guidelines are provided. However, guests may choose to purchase Pre-Paid Gratuities, which cover the recommended amounts for the ship’s crew and Cruise Manager during the cruise. If purchased, this will appear in your electronic travel documents about 30 days before departure.
- While tipping is at your discretion, recommended gratuities include: Ship’s Crew (pooled and divided equally among all crew members): 7-night cruises: €125 per guest (AmaMagna: €145)
- Cruise Manager (not included in crew pool; also accompanies guests on land packages): 7-night cruises: €30 per guest
- Pre- or post-cruise land packages: €5 per guest, per day
- Local Guides & Coach Drivers (for optional shore excursions): It is customary to tip a local guide and coach driver at the end of each tour. The recommended amount for local guides is 3 Euros per guest for a half-day tour or 5 Euros for a full-day tour. For coach drivers, the recommended gratuity is 2 Euros per guest for a half-day tour or 3 Euros for a full-day tour.
How Much Do AmaWaterways’ Rhine Castles & Swiss Alps Trips Cost?
The cost of AmaWaterways’ Rhine Castles & Swiss Alps 7-night cruise varies based on the time of year and stateroom category. Basic staterooms typically range from around $3,000 to $5,700 per person and for suites with balconies ranging from $9,500 – $16,500 per person.
Are Payment Plans Available?
AmaWaterways does not offer formal payment plans. However, if you book more than 90 days in advance, you can secure your reservation with an initial deposit. After that, you have the flexibility to make additional partial payments leading up to the cruise, with the full balance required at least 90 days before departure.
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