Shuffling by the Impressionist masterpieces in lockstep with the tourist horde wasn’t the Paris morning I’d planned. The d’Orsay was packed with people even though I’d arrived shortly after opening. It was the same scene along the Seine, at Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower. I didn’t even attempt the Louvre, retreating instead to the city’s botanical garden for elbow room and ice cream.
I love to sightsee. But I hate crowds.
Escaping to the rural French countryside for a European Waterways hotel barge cruise, I explored off-the-beaten-path chateaux, wineries and villages in splendid isolation. The immersive excursions were the antidote to my crowd fatigue, complemented by sunny spring weather, friendly crew and barge mates and fresh-from-the-boulangerie baguettes. Here’s what to expect on board a Burgundy canal barge. It just might be the detour you need.
The trip was hosted. All opinions are my own.
What’s a Luxury Hotel Barge Holiday?
Friends of mine chartered a canal barge in the south of France years ago for a family vacation. They gushed about lazy days, pastoral scenery, market fresh food and wine. The trip lodged in my brain as a must-do.
So I was excited to board La Belle Epoque, a luxury hotel barge scheduled to cruise from Venarey-les-Laumes to Lézinnes, a leisurely journey of approximately 50 kilometers over six days. European Waterways, founded in 1974, operates 18 vessels in nine countries.
Days onboard feature simple pleasures:
- Sipping fine wine
- Sharing communal meals with a spotlight on regional cuisine
- Walking or biking along canal towpaths
- Reading on the boat deck
- Napping in your cabin
And there’s a daily excursion to a local hidden gem.
It’s the type of holiday appealing to slow travel enthusiasts. And cats. At several moments during the week, I felt like a pampered Persian kitty stretching in the sunshine.
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Pre-Cruise Questions
I boarded La Belle Epoque, a small 12-passenger vessel, remembering my friends’ wonderful experience, but I had some concerns:
- What if I don’t get along with the other guests?
- Will I like the food?
- Am I going to be bored?
I was traveling solo and would be spending my whole vacation with strangers. It was very possible that I might not get along with one of them.
Meals are communal affairs with a set menu of regional French dishes. I’m no gourmet, raised on Fluffernutters and pizza. And, for years, my wine appreciation was limited to Carlo Rossi $4.99 jug Chablis.
And, as I mentioned, I like to tick off major sights when traveling. The rural farms and vineyards in Burgundy are eye candy, but on an excitement scale, I was expecting a 4 out of 10.
Surprising Delights and a Few Culinary Gambles
I shouldn’t have worried.
My seven fellow passengers were delightful, engaging companions. We were all Americans, although one couple has lived in Mexico for decades. We shared common passions for travel and gardening, and, because we leaned the same way politically, we avoided potential conversation landmines.
Although the US is European Waterways’ primary market, the UK company attracts a wide range of international guests.
La Belle Epoque Meals
Breakfast each day was a simple start with bread and pastry baskets, fresh-squeezed juice, meats and cheese, yogurt, fruit and a choice of eggs. After struggling with small Parisian Americanos, I was delighted to cradle a true, brewed cup of morning coffee.
The daily lunch menu was set out at breakfast, and the dinner menu was made available at lunch. We were encouraged to let the Captain know if we had a concern with the day’s meals so that an alternative could be prepared.
I rolled with the set options and discovered happy surprises. For example, oeufs meurette is a Burgundian dish of poached egg in a wine sauce. The egg floating in a crimson soup wasn’t visually appealing, but I forged on and sopped up every delicious drop with a hunk of bread. Everyone’s tastes are different. Most dishes were universally adored; some were 50/50. The meals also included trios of local cheeses and fantastic desserts. I pushed away from every meal, sated and appreciative of the fresh flavors and beautiful presentations.
The Pour’s the Thing
For both lunch and dinner, two wines were served, paired with the menu by the Captain. Each selection was presented in lush detail by Emma and Luna, the barge hostesses. It made it easier for me, as a wine rookie, to identify flavor notes like vanilla and black currants.
In addition to the wines served with meals, Captain routinely sabered bottles of Champagne, so I spent most of the week flute-fisted. And we had open access to the full bar, soft drinks and bottled still and sparkling waters.
What are Canal Barge Excursions Like?
The barge excursions had the feel of family field trips. We’d load into our Mercedes Sprinter van and drive through the Burgundy farmlands. Some trips were close to our docking point; the longest drive was a little over an hour away. Captain Craig was our driver and tour guide, providing expert commentary about the region’s history, traditions and legends. We met hawks and nobles, vintners and cheesemongers. And, best of all, there were no busloads of tourists. We could wander, listen and simply be present in these ancient places. It’s why I travel to Europe – to experience the centuries of art, architecture and history we don’t have in the US.
Here’s a look at the excursions and activities scheduled for European Waterways’ Northern Burgundy classic cruise.
A Morning at the Abbey
We arrived at The Abbaye de Fontenay and found the grounds nearly deserted. It’s not what you’d expect at a designated UNESCO World Heritage site. But, throughout my time in Burgundy, I traveled free from the maddening crowds I’d endured in Paris in the days before boarding the barge.
The 12th-century abbey was home to as many as 150 Cistercian monks, who’d taken vows of poverty, chastity and silence.. Simple stained-glass windows were the only adornments in the otherwise austere chapel. I imagine I felt the same serenity walking the courtyard cloisters that the monks experienced 900 years ago.
Château et LEGO
The primary attraction in Ancy-le-Franc is the 16th-century château, designed by Italian architect Sébastiano Serlio. The estate apartments feature a historic collection of murals, painted by leading decorative artists.
During my visit, several rooms contained grand LEGO displays of Hogwarts, Paris and Gotham City. The exhibition, aimed at the under-18 set, was designed to engage kids during a field trip that might have elicited groans when suggested by parents.
Wine Tasting in Chablis
I’ll never turn down Chablis again, as long as it’s a Premier or Grand Cru. Before visiting Domaine Laroche, I didn’t know there was a difference. But, after touring the cellars with renowned sommelier Régis Salagnac and tasting the wines, I learned that the vineyard’s sun exposure, slope and limestone terroir produce unique tastes.
Laroche is headquartered in a monastery founded by an order tasked with protecting the relics of St. Martin from Viking invaders. Wine production dates back over 1000 years. We toured the ancient cellars where oak barrels sit as they have for centuries.
But it’s not all old-school at Laroche. The company began using screw tops in 2001 without impacting the wine’s flavor or its ability to be stored.
Most of the cute shops in Chablis closed for the May Day labor holiday. I’d love to return to visit some of the caves (the French term for wine stores) for tastings and trinkets.
Royal Lunch in Champagne
I was nervous about the Champagne excursion because it included sitting down to dine with a Baron and Baroness. Although I don’t chew with my mouth open, I wondered if my table manners would pass muster.
Charles, the Baron, met us in one of his family vineyards and lovingly described the work involved in growing the grape varieties used to blend Taisne Riocour champagnes. He was friendly, engaging and reminded me of Larry David from Curb Your Enthusiasm.
We headed off to the bottling facility and learned about the bottle fermentation process that puts the bubbles in bubbly. To remove the sediment before corking, the bottles are gradually tilted and turned. Then the top of the bottle is flash frozen and the sediment pops out when uncapped. Finally, the bottle gets corked. The journey from vine to store takes about four years.
Ségolène, the Baroness, welcomed us into the Chateau de Ricey-Bas. After a champagne toast and hors d’oeuvres, we moved to the formal dining room for a seated lunch. It was anything but a stuffy affair. The couple shared charming stories and talked with pride about the family’s 1975 decision to resurrect the vineyards and champagne production.
A large tent in the courtyard is a permanent fixture during event season. The chateau, gardens and vaulted stone cellar are available for catered rentals.
Birds of Prey and Daisy the Pig
I’m a little squeamish around birds. My sister-in-law’s pet parrot once tried to source nest materials from my hair. But I didn’t flinch when Tinkerbell, a pretty American kestrel, landed on my knee during a Birds of Prey display at Chateau de Commarin.
Count Bertrand de Vogue represents the 26th generation to occupy the estate property. After the falconry display, he met with guests from our barge and L’Impressioniste, another European Waterways vessel, to talk about the property’s history and his committed efforts to restore the estate.
We toured the stables, kitchen, several rooms in the chateau and the intimate family chapel.
We also met Daisy, the resident pig and reluctant social media star, who indulges selfie-seekers.
Field Trip to the Boulangerie
Captain Craig issued a standing invitation to join him on his morning shopping excursion to the local boulangerie to select breads and pastries. The carb supply is replenished daily because French breads are prepared without preservatives and quickly turn rock hard.
The reward for riding shotgun at 7:30 am was an éclair half topped with a Kinder chocolate nugget.
Along the Towpath
The well-maintained and level towpaths alongside the canal are ideal for biking or strolling. I included daily brisk walks to offset baguette weight gain so I could fit into my pants at week’s end.
Some sections are more shaded and scenic than others. Ask the crew about the best spots to disembark. Prepare to wait. You walk faster than the boat cruises. At one spot, I spoke with the lockkeeper who was eager to practice his English. He thanked me by plucking a bouquet of lilacs from a nearby bush.
SheBuysTravel Tip: There was little or no shade at most of the locks. Don’t forget sun protection and water. My packable Wallaroo hat is made of UPF 50 fabric, blocking 97.5% of ultraviolet rays.
Farmers’ Market
The farmers’ market in Ancy-le-Franc was a pleasant pit stop before driving to Chablis. It’s a regular Thursday drop-in for the barge chef and captain. They choose the cheese for the following week’s cruise.
The most interesting regional cheese was époisses, a stinky, soft cow’s milk round. It has a distinct orange rind that develops after multiple baths in marc, a strong local brandy made from winemaking leftovers.
At the market, several vendors were selling lily of the valley posies. Known as muguet in France, the flowers are traditionally presented to young ladies on May 1, a ritual that began in the court of King Charles IX in the mid-16th century.
Surprise Guests
Captain Craig asked us to gather on the deck at 6 pm one evening instead of meeting for dinner at 7:30. It was another beautiful, warm evening, ideal for sipping Champagne.
To our surprise, a quartet of musicians appeared, dressed like a Disney Dixieland band. The talented ensemble performed an hour-long private concert for us that included New Orleans standards and, of course, “La Vie en Rose.”
Reasons to Consider a Luxury Hotel Barge Holiday
After taking my canal cruise, I think this type of vacation works if you want to…
- Explore hidden gems
- Relax
- Try gourmet food and boutique wines
I’d love to charter the whole barge for a family trip. I think it would be an epic way to celebrate a milestone event. European Waterways has themed cruises. The Burgundy itinerary is offered with both golf and tennis itineraries, which my son, husband and daughters would love. I’ll stick with the Champagne.
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