Bonaire is a small Dutch island in the Caribbean just 50 miles off the coast of Venezuela. Despite not being well-known outside of scuba diving circles – if you’re a diver, you’ve probably heard of Bonaire – it’s easy to get to from the United States. While the vibe is a little bit wild and undeveloped – approximately a fifth of the island is a protected national park – there are plenty of amenities and comfort on Bonaire and an elevated culinary scene.
Here’s what to do in Bonaire, plus the essential info you need to plan your trip.
Bon Where?
When preparing for my trip to Bonaire, the most common reaction I got was, “Where’s that?” When I explained that it was part of the “ABC Islands” of Aruba, Bonaire, and Curacao, the lightbulb usually came on because most people had heard of Aruba. All three islands are municipalities of the Netherlands, and the Dutch influence is very much evident in Bonaire in the form of food, culture, and Dutch tourists.
A visa is not necessary for U.S. citizens visiting Bonaire, but a pre-arrival tax form must be filled out and paid for online. You’ll receive a QR code after making your $75 payment, which you must show when entering Bonaire. If you don’t pay your tourism tax before you leave, you’ll have to stand in a longer line when you get to Bonaire. You’ll have other things you’ll want to go and do upon arrival, and the form is very straightforward, so just handle it before you leave.
The following cities have direct flights to Bonaire: Miami, Atlanta, New York’s JFK, Newark, Houston, and Toronto. I flew American Airlines from Miami, and it was an easy three-hour flight. Bonaire is on Atlantic Standard Time, so there’s minimal jet lag/time difference to deal with.
Cruise Ship Stops
Celebrity, Royal Caribbean, and Carnival all stop in Bonaire. Although I recommend spending a few days there to get the feel of the island, any of the things on this list can be adapted if you only have a short time there.
There was a cruise ship in port on my last full day on the island, and I have to say, I didn’t love the vibe the cruise ship passengers brought. I have nothing against cruises, and one of the cool things about taking cruises is getting to explore a variety of new places on a single trip, but the wild, unspoiled mood of Bonaire shifted with the influx of cruise ship tourists.
Things to do in Bonaire Besides Diving
If you love scuba diving or want to learn, Bonaire is a fantastic place to be. Diving is extra special in Bonaire because it is home to one of the Caribbean’s healthiest coral reefs. The reef encircles the entire island, making many of the 86 official dive sites accessible from the shore. Experienced divers find Bonaire an easy place to dive without a guide. Dive sites are marked with yellow rocks.
But if you’re not into diving or want to do other things besides diving on your vacation to Bonaire. This list has you covered.
1. Food, Glorious Food
Sure, you’ve got to eat, but for foodies, Bonaire offers some next-level tasting menus. Here are some places to check out if you’re into elevated cuisine and chef’s tasting menus. I had some pretty seriously high-end food in Bonaire, but what consistently struck me is the warmth of the chefs, sommeliers, and servers I met. Everything is approachable, and the pretty views make everything that much more wonderful.
Zara’s Bonaire Chef’s Table – The rooftop patio views are ideal for sunset watching, and the counter-style chef’s table experience gives you a great view of the magic and artistry that goes into making your dishes and interacting with the chef’s team.
Biña at Chogogo Resort – Chogogo – which means flamingo – is a beachside resort popular with Dutch families. Biña is a delightful, open-air restaurant with ocean views and an elevated menu. If you’re interested in trying the Chef’s Tasting Menu, you can choose between three, four, and five courses. There’s also an a la carte menu for anyone who prefers to have more control over what they’re served.
Melisa Sailing – This is a unique sunset dinner on board a sailboat. The low, comfortable seating – visitors sit on benches, rugs, and pillows – the laid-back atmosphere, and the gorgeous sunset views are the backdrop for some culinary awesomeness and excellent service.
2. Snorkel
I might not be a diver, but I am a snorkeler and will grab a mask and fins any chance I get. The beauty of the reefs that make diving so special on Bonaire also makes it an epic spot to snorkel. I’ve snorkeled throughout the Caribbean and Baja California, and my experience snorkeling on Bonaire was the best ever.
There are several spots to snorkel in Washington Slagbaai National Park. Note that the park is closed on Mondays and has limited hours: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM, and no entries after 2:30 PM. Paying a $40 Nature Fee to enter is mandatory, and there’s an eco station at the entrance where visitors must disinfect their snorkel gear. You can save time by paying your Nature Fee in advance through an online portal.
3. Check out Bonaire’s Wildlife
Bonaire is home to flamingos, and their glorious pink feathers are fun to watch and photograph. None of my photos did justice to the brilliant hues of their feathers. There are protected areas within Washington Slagbaai National Park where visitors can observe the flamingos, although you can’t get into the water with them.
The park is also home to parrots and iguanas. I didn’t get to see any parrots, but I did observe a chunky iguana starting at a group of picnickers, probably hoping for a handout. The picnickers did the right thing and shooed him away versus giving him food, but he sure was fun to watch.
There are also free-range donkeys and goats roaming around Bonaire. The donkeys I encountered were curious and sociable but became substantially less interested once they realized I didn’t have any nibbles to share with them. There is also a donkey sanctuary on the island.
4. Take a water taxi to Kleine Bonaire
Kleine Bonaire, meaning “Little Bonaire,” is an island within an island. The island is six square kilometers and uninhabited, but visitors can go for the day via a water taxi. The boats can’t get all the way to shore, so prepare to get your feet wet as you get off the boat.
No Name Beach is a pristine spot to swim, snorkel, and sunbathe. Two man-made shelters offer a bit of shade and some bench seating; otherwise, there are no facilities on the island. Visitors to Kleine Bonaire must bring everything they need for a beach day with them and pack out their trash. One of the local water taxi services offers a combo ticket that includes transportation, a boxed lunch, and a canopy chair. Whether or not you rent a chair, know the sun is intense, and there’s little escape from it. Come prepared with a hat and plenty of sunscreen.
I went to Kleine Bonaire on Earth Day and participated in a tree planting. We grabbed our take-along breakfast at Bages & Bloom before taking the water taxi.
5. Enjoy the Beach Club Life
My favorite thing about Bonaire was the chill beach club culture. I loved having a nice lunch and enjoying a couple of drinks, followed by some lounging and swimming. My favorite Bonaire beach club is called—wait for it—the Beach Club. There’s super laid-back outdoor dining with a simple menu and good drinks. If you want a burger, a salad, or some Dutch comfort food, such as bitterballen or croquettes, this is the place to get that. It’s nothing fancy, but the service is friendly, and there’s nothing better than the view of the water.
The Beach Club has loungers in the shade and direct water access, and the chairs are available for customers to use. There’s no sand beach—guests must climb down a ladder to get into the water, which is about waist deep on an adult near the area where you first get in, and then gets deeper. The water is gentle, so this is an excellent place to snorkel, float, and swim.
Ocean Oasis is another beach club option. There’s a restaurant and bar with delicious food and a separate beach club operation with lounge chairs and cabana rentals. The oceanfront cabanas for two people are $75 per day, and the cabanas that sit a little further back from the water are $50 per day.
6. Hone Your Photography Skills
Whether you’re a hobby photographer or a semi-pro, there’s lots to photograph on Bonaire and opportunities to level up your photography. Local photographer Casper Douma offers a variety of tours around Bonaire. Locations and lengths vary based on how much time and money you want to invest. You’ll need a proper camera – this photography instruction goes beyond cell phone snaps.
Douma can offer instruction on night photography. The prime location to get night shots is at Bonaire’s Willemstoren Lighthouse, but take some time to gauge where the moonrise is in relation to any weather and cloud cover that might be happening. Douma is a patient and knowledgeable photographer, but make sure to check weather conditions to see if they’re right for night photography.
7. Water Sports
In addition to diving and snorkeling, kitesurfing and windsurfing are popular in Bonaire. The difference between kitesurfing and windsurfing is that with kite surfing, you are harnessed to the board the sail, and with windsurfing, the sail is attached to the board and not you. That level of adrenaline is not for me, but it is fun to watch, and if you’re up for the challenge, Bonaire is a great place to try it.
8. Explore downtown Bonaire
The city of Kralendijk in downtown Bonaire is a fun place to have lunch and stroll in and out of the shops. The buildings are Dutch-inspired and very colorful, and the streets are clean and safe. Whether you’re looking for beach gear or some extra sunscreen or want to browse for gifts in the local boutiques, Kralendijk is a great way to spend an afternoon after a morning in the water.
Number Ten Bonaire is a fun, slightly quirky lunch stop. The menu has everything from smash burgers to quesadillas to seared tuna. Their Instagram feed is full of pictures of their very photo-worthy cakes, and I have terrible post-trip FOMO because I didn’t get a slice of their rainbow cake, so don’t make that mistake.
Where to Stay in Bonaire
I stayed at Delfin’s Beach Resort and enjoyed it. It’s close to the airport, has direct water access, and all the comforts of home. There’s an onsite dive outfitter, and while I didn’t dive in Bonaire, it was easy to rent my snorkel mask and fins onsite.
I had a studio room which had a comfortable king bed and en suite bathroom as well as a living room/kitchen area and patio. This room is designed for two and the homelike atmosphere makes a longer stay comfortable.
Delfin’s Beach Resort has two beautiful pools, an onsite fitness center, a spa, and two full-service restaurants. There’s also a beachfront bar that serves food. I stayed very busy in Bonaire and I didn’t spend a lot of time at the resort other than to sleep, but I did take some time out to enjoy the pools and the beachfront lounges.
I would stay at Delfin’s Beach Resort again. I loved the comfort and location and I always love a good pool, so this property was delivered. I saw a full mix of visitors at Delfin’s, from couples of all ages to families with younger children. The overall vibe is peaceful and chill.
The only negative I had was that there was no air conditioning in the living room area. There was a window unit that kept the bedroom nice and cool for sleeping, but the cool air did not flow into the living area. I tried opening the windows to allow some cross breeze to flow and it didn’t help a lot. It wasn’t an issue because I didn’t desire to hang out in the living area but if I’d have wanted to, I wouldn’t have sat out there because it was so warm. The patio area was breezy and comfortable.
If you’re traveling with kids, consider Chogogo Dive & Beach Resort, which has a slide and lazy river, as well as larger apartment-like villas that are suited to families and larger groups.
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