By Heidi Gollub
This trip was hosted. All opinions expressed are entirely my own.
Vancouver Island is an explorer’s dream. Not only does it have the most temperate weather in Canada, it also boasts rainforests, a rocky coastline, and starfish-lined beaches. A quick flight or ferry ride from Seattle or Vancouver, and the island is your oyster.
I’ve recently taken two weeklong trips to Vancouver Island, starting in Victoria and heading north. Both sides of the island are gorgeous, with mountains, lakes, and forests filled with mossy rocks and towering trees. In this itinerary, I’ll share what to do and where to stay in Victoria and Tofino, two of the island’s top destinations.
Whether you’re whale-watching on the Salish Sea or storm-watching on the Pacific coast, you’ll be blown away by Vancouver Island’s natural beauty. As Charles McDiarmid, owner of Tofino’s Wickaninnish Inn, says, “Mother Nature gets prime billing here.”
Victoria: Stay at Canada’s Castle on the Coast
You can’t go to Vancouver Island and not stay in the iconic Fairmont Empress. This historic hotel in Victoria, the capital of British Columbia, is the perfect place to start your island adventure. Known as Canada’s Castle on the Coast, the regal Empress overlooks the inner harbor and its neighboring parliament buildings.
I love Canada’s chateau hotels — like Fairmont Banff Springs — that were built by the Canadian Pacific Railway in some of the country’s most stunning locations. Dating back to 1908, the Empress underwent a multi-million-dollar renovation in 2017, restoring its timeless beauty while adding modern luxury.
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Relax like Royals
Named for Queen Victoria, who was also the Empress of India, Fairmont Empress offers a variety of rooms, suites, and dining experiences, from fondue and tea-infused cocktails on the Veranda to fine wine and amuse bouches at Q at the Empress.
If you truly want to spoil yourself, Fairmont Gold takes your stay to the next level. With a Fairmont Gold booking, you have private check-in and access to a cozy lounge and patio with harbor views, where you can indulge in complimentary breakfast, afternoon snacks, and evening canapés.
Afternoon Tea at the Fairmont Empress
A don’t-miss experience, whether you stay at the hotel or not, is Afternoon Tea at the Fairmont Empress. Served in the grand tea room, this century-old tradition offers an elegant selection of freshly brewed teas, delicate finger sandwiches, scones with clotted cream, and a tempting array of pastries and sweets.
Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or just indulging in a bit of history, Afternoon Tea here is a quintessential Victoria experience. The hotel’s sconemaster has been baking scones to perfection for more than 40 years, and you can taste his experience. Make a reservation early — up to a year in advance — so you don’t miss out. Spots fill up quickly, especially on cruise port days.
Walking and Cycling Tours in Victoria
Victoria is easy to explore on foot, and a walking tour with a guide from Discover the Past is an interactive way to learn the area’s history. Ask a local historian all your questions as you stroll by the British Columbia Legislature, the Royal BC Museum, and the oldest Chinatown in Canada.
If you’d rather sightsee on two wheels, The Pedaler offers guided bike tours. Victoria is the “cycling capital of Canada,” since most residents live near a bike route. So, hopping on a bike is the perfect way to experience the city’s charm at a relaxed pace.
Whale-Watching Boat Tours
It’s easy to forget when shopping along Government Street that whales might be just a boat ride away. Eagle Wing Tours has wildlife-watching boat tours of the Salish Sea in every season, leaving right from the harbor.
Bundle up for the ride and keep your eyes peeled for orcas, humpback whales, seals, sea lions, and Pacific white-sided dolphins. While there’s no guarantee of a sighting, the anticipation and excitement of scanning the horizon for whales make it an unforgettable adventure.
Butchart Gardens
Just outside Victoria, Butchart Gardens has 55 acres of blossoms and blooms to enjoy. Once a quarry, this vast land reclamation project now dazzles with colorful landscapes, from the lush Sunken Garden to the fragrant Rose Garden.
Tofino: Where The Wick Meets the Waves
From Victoria, wind your way up Vancouver Island’s scenic highway to Tofino, a west coast town known for year-round surfing and wave-smashing storm watching. Perched at the end of a peninsula that juts into the Pacific Ocean, Tofino is a low-key paradise for hikers and beachcombers.
Tucked into 100 acres of Tofino’s rainforest, the Wickaninnish Inn is an unexpected 5-star Relais & Châteaux hotel affectionately called The Wick. At this oceanfront property, broody weather is to be celebrated and enjoyed. The service is top-notch, and so is the rainy weather gear they provide for each guest. So you can relax in luxury, after mucking it up outdoors in the rain like a kid.
A World-Class Retreat
The Wickaninnish Inn sits on Chesterman Beach, Tofino’s longest stretch of sand. At the inn, you’ll have nature’s forest behind you and the world’s largest ocean in front of you. It’s easy to forget the rest of the world exists when you can grab a Hudson’s Bay blanket to wrap around yourself and head to your balcony with a bird book and binoculars — all provided for you in your room.
Rooms at The Wick are cleverly designed to focus on nature’s spectacular show. Even soaker tubs have an ocean view. You can fill your tub, add locally made bath salts, pad across your heated bathroom floor to turn on the woodburning stove, light the provided candles for ambiance, and relax to Sarah McLachlan by selecting from the Canadian musicians on your room’s iPad. The Wick has thought of every detail to make your stay 100% dreamy.
Storm Watching at its Best
Tofino’s rugged coastline is famous for its winter storms and the Wickaninnish Inn offers the best front-row seat for these dramatic events. From the comfort of your room, or one of the hotel’s many indoor vantage points, you can watch as waves crash against the rocks and surfers brave the Pacific’s chilly waters.
If you prefer to be outside, grab your rain gear and head down to the beach at low tide — the best time to hunt for starfish along the shore.
Discover Tofino’s History and Culture
The Tofino Clayoquot Heritage Museum, managed by the Tofino Clayoquot Heritage Society, is small but worth a visit to learn about the region’s indigenous history. Stop by to browse the exhibits, then take the museum’s guided walking tour through Tofino to learn more.
Following the tour, walk over to the stunning Roy Henry Vickers Gallery, a free gallery built by the world-renowned Canadian First Nations artist. Save room in your suitcase so you can buy a few souvenir prints.
A Perfect Day in Tofino
Start your day with a stroll along Chesterman Beach as the morning fog rolls in, or borrow a bike from the inn. After a quick breakfast at The Wick’s Driftwood Café, head out for a hike in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, where coastal rainforests meet tidal flats.
For lunch, try some delicious belly-warming soup and bread at Tofino’s original whole foods bake shop, Common Loaf, and order some treats to go. Then give foraging a try on a guided tour through the aromatic forest and onto the ocean shore, with Brite Collective. You’ll learn that you’re surrounded by delicious, edible ingredients in Tofino.
In the evening, take another one of those relaxing baths, perhaps accompanied by a glass of complimentary Port wine that The Wick provides as a welcome gift. Then head into Tofino for dinner, where you have a number of restaurants to choose from. Ombré is a good choice for small, shareable plates. Its delectable pasta, cheese, and butter are all made in-house, under the direction of Executive Chef, David Provençal from Montreal. And its French New Wave playlist is on point.
Getting to Vancouver Island
Vancouver Island, located just off the southern coast of British Columbia, is easily accessible by ferry or air.
- By Ferry: BC Ferries operates several routes connecting the island with mainland Canada. Ferries run frequently from Vancouver to Victoria, as well as from Vancouver to Nanaimo. If you’re coming from the States, you can take an FRS Clipper ferry from Seattle.
- By Air: Airports in Victoria (YYJ), Nanaimo (YCD), and Comox (YQQ) serve major Canadian airlines like Air Canada and WestJet. Flights typically take less than an hour if you’re coming from Vancouver or Seattle.
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