In search of the perfect post-holiday retreat after spending Christmas with an old host family in Country Wicklow, I headed south and landed at the magical Liss Ard Estate. Hidden away on acres of fairytale forest with numerous wellness offerings such as private saunas along the lake, I knew I’d made the right choice within moments of arrival. The estate’s storied history includes Swiss spies, art fronts and various private hoteliers. Recent, extensive renovations resulted in a beautiful place that exceeded my expectations for a relaxing trip to the Irish Coast.
Liss Ard Estate History
Originally a 3,000-acre private residence for wealthy Irish families, Liss Ard changed hands post-WWII numerous times. The Swiss labeled the area “the safest part of Europe” during the Cold War when fear of invasion and nuclear attack drove Albert Bachmann, a high-ranking Swiss spy, to seek a place for a government safe house. In 1976, after many visits to Ireland, he bought the estate and turned it into an espionage base.
The next decade, after a scandal blew up the spyhold, Swiss investors took over and hired Veith Turske, a German art dealer, to run the property. In 2021, the entire place underwent extensive renovations and now welcomes guests from all over the world as part of the Relais & Chateaux portfolio.
Are you ready to explore off the beaten path? Let us inspire you!
Overview of the Estate
Liss Ard feels hidden away, even in secluded West Cork. A massive forest of Monterey cypresses and Cedars coats most of 150+ acres. Iconic rolling green hills surround, creating an idyllic scenic respite. I loved my walks and runs around the property.
- This Hotel Is Best Suited For: All types of travelers, vacationing couples, solo travelers in search of peace and families.
- Pros: Quiet, tranquil and most visitor needs are met on-site.
- Cons: Nothing within walking distance. Anything off-property necessitates a drive to town.
- SheBuysTravel Tip: Arrive in daylight, particularly in winter, when Irish country roads can make the turn off easy to miss—I nearly did.
Guest Houses and Rooms at Liss Ard Estate
Liss Ard Estate has three guest buildings: the Manor (main) House, the Garden House and the Lake House. Each has a few different room options, but all include an in-room coffee and tea maker, a flat-screen TV, bathrobes and slippers. It is a pet-friendly property, but make sure to inquire ahead of time, as not all rooms are open to four-legged visitors.
Manor House
Check in and meals took place at the Manor House, which houses the bar and restaurant.
- Manor Suite: Sleeps up to 4 guests (2 adults, 2 children) and has a bathtub
- Manor Junior Suite: Sleeps up to 3 guests (2 adults, 1 child) and has a separate bathtub
- Manor King: Sleeps up to 2 guests
Garden House
Located next to the Manor House.
- Garden House King: Sleeps up to 3 guests (2 adults, 1 child)
- Garden House Cosy: Sleeps up to 2 guests
Lake House
A 7-minute walk from the Manor and Garden Houses. The property has golf carts for guest use.
- Lake House Suite: Sleeps up to 3 guests (2 adults, 1 child) and has a separate bathtub
- Lake House King: Sleeps up to 3 guests (2 adults, 1 child)
- Lake House Cosy: Sleeps up to 2 guests
Dining
The on-site restaurant, headed by Chef Luca Armellino, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. The team locally sources ingredients and 95% come from farms within 50 miles (80 kilometers) of the property. I had the best beet root gnocchi of my life at dinner my first night (and yes, I’ve had numerous plates of it elsewhere) and amazing duck the second, which I recommend for the non-vegetarians. It had the feel of a high dining establishment, with excellent service sans snooty attitudes found elsewhere.
The lounge provided the ideal place to chill and sip creative cocktails and snack on small bites between from 3:00 to 6:00 pm.
Guests can also book wine and whiskey tastings as well as mixology courses.
Amenities
I adored the open access to walking paths, numerous wellness cabins with water views and a private lake (oddly never used by the spies.
Wellness Offerings
The views from wood cabins looked out onto the lake and sold me immediately.
- Yoga studio and gym (open 7 am to 10 pm)
- Finnish sauna (8 am to 6 pm for 1.5-hour private bookings)
By appointment:
- Lake cold plunge
- Tea ceremony
- Sound bath
- Reiki
- Massages
Outdoor Activities
Independent:
- 163 acres of trails to walk and hike
- Kayaks and paddleboards to rent
- Sky Garden built by artist James Turrell
Guided:
- Fishing, birding, and foraging excursions.
Sites and Activities Nearby
Located off Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, Liss Ard delighted me with proximity to endless coastal drives, hidden beaches and stunning scenery.
- Beaches: Tragumma Beach, Tralispeen Bay Beach, Ballyhack Bay Beach and Traigh Liceach
- Historic sites: Toe Head Signal Tower, Knockdrum Stone Fort and Gurranes Stone Row
- Golf courses: Waterville, Travlee Golf Club and Old Head of Kinsale
Safety Features
I slept well and felt rested, assured by the safety features installed in each room: carbon monoxide detector, fire extinguisher, smoke detector, security system, first aid kit and window guards.
Getting There
My car provided much-needed convenience. Public transportation was an option: a train runs from Dublin to Cork where you’ll board a bus to Skibbereen (about 2 hours); then either take a taxi or the property shuttle to Liss Ard (about a 10-minute drive).
Honestly though, unless you only want to stay on the property and not visit the surrounding area, you’ll need a car.
Leave a Reply